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There is something magical about a cascade waterfall spilling over a cliff. Whether it’s a huge waterfall or a gentle trickle, capturing the waterfall photography effect that you want is easy once you know a few simple tricks on how to photograph waterfalls.  The secrets lie in having the right equipment and understanding the camera settings for waterfalls based on the effect you want to achieve.  Regardless of your camera, you probably have more control than you realise.

Rere waterfall just outslide Gisborne New Zealand
Rere Falls in New Zealand
Shutter Speed: 1/80, Aperture: f/14, ISO: 200
Handheld

Camera setting for waterfalls

How to photograph waterfalls, so the water appears as a smooth flow:

  • Camera Mode: manual
  • Aperture: f14 to f18 (you want the maximum in focus at the optimal aperture for your camera)
  • ISO: Smallest available on your camera (On my Olympus that is 200, on daughter’s Canon it is 100)
  • Shutter speed if handheld: 1/30 or the slowest speed you can handle. Ideally, use a tripod and an ND filter and start out with a 2-3 second shot. Bracket and experiment with the light.
  • Shutter speed if tripod and ND filter: 2-3 seconds. Bracket and experiment with the light.
  • Either use a shutter release cable or set the camera to self-timer.

Waterfall photography shutter speed adjustments and their effect

If you want the effect of smooth water, you need to use a slower shutter speed.

I have carried a tripod to capture one motion waterfall picture. The average person cannot hold a camera steady for longer than 1/30 second and will use a tripod starting at 1/20 seconds.

Whangarai Falls in Whangarai New Zealand
Whangarei Falls in New Zealand
Shutter Speed: 1.6 sec, Aperture: f/13, ISO: 200
Tripod and ND Filter
  • If you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera and are comfortable shooting in manual, use the camera settings for waterfalls listed above.
  • If you typically keep your camera in automatic mode, you might want to set the camera to “S” for shutter priority. This will allow you to set the shutter speed while the camera makes the rest of the adjustments. If you are taking a handheld shot, try it first at 1/20 second. To help yourself stay steady, hold the camera with both hands, elbows down at your side, and gently hold your breath before you take the shot. If your image is in focus, try again at 1/15 seconds. Or, if your original shot is blurry, try again at 1/30 second.
  • If you have a tripod, set your camera on shutter priority, and set the shutter no faster than 1/20 second. I usually start at 1/5 seconds or slower if I have an ND filter. If it is too bright, try a shorter time.
  • If you have a point and shoot camera this effect is a bit more difficult, as they are not designed for tripod shots. Your best option is the setting for the lowest light, either candlelight or night shooting.  However, if this triggers your flash, you could try covering it up.

If you want to freeze the water you need to use a faster shutter speed:

Whangarai Falls in Whangarai New Zealand
Whangarei Falls in New Zealand
Shutter Speed: 1/320, Aperture: f/10, ISO: 640
Handheld
  • Similar to above, set your DSLR or mirrorless camera to “S” for shutter priority. Set your shutter speed for 1/100 to get started.
  • If you have a point and shoot camera you can trick your camera into a faster shutter speed by putting it in sports mode.

Our Photography Gear

Several years ago I switched from DSLR to mirrorless technology. The general advantages are lighter weight and smaller gear that sacrifices only the traditional "look" of a professional camera and the ability to blow up images to huge sizes. I have never looked back, and am thrilled with the quality I am able to produce. Below is my current gear, which also serves as my recommendations. My daughter shoots with a DSLR that is also included below.

Olympus  OM-D E-M5 Mark II Digital Camera with 14-150mm lens

Olympus  OM-D E-M5 Mark II Digital Camera with 14-150mm lens

Photo Credit: www.getolympus.com

This is it! I firmly believe that the OM-D E-M5 Mark II is the perfect travel camera. It's compact, lightweight and weather-sealed, so rain doesn't stop me. While the autofocus is lightning quick, the manual override allows me to obtain a different effect. Output options are RAW, jpeg, or full HD video.

With a 14-150mm lens, advanced image stabilization, speed up to 1/8000 sec, and ISO to 25600, I can shoot in just about any condition and can create impressive low light shots without a tripod. It is now my primary go-anywhere camera, complete with built-in wifi.

The button below lets you purchase directly from Olympus, however, they only ship to the USA and Canada. The Olympus OM-D E-M5 Mark II is also available at Amazon (click here for details).

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Olympus TG-5 Waterproof Camera

Olympus TG-5 Waterproof Camera

Photo Credit: www.amazon.com

The Olympus Tough TG-5 is a compact point and shoot that is waterproof, shockproof, crushproof, freezeproof, dustproof, and it fits in my pocket. This tough little camera designed for adventure produces high-resolution RAW stills (or jpeg) or HD 4K video.

It's a camera for everyone. Automatic settings allow anyone to capture great shots or, use one of the special presets for people, motion, indoors, nightscapes, scenery, underwater, or close up. For the more advanced photographer, there is an aperture priority mode with the ability to override the default exposure levels.

I use mine for underwater shots, beach days, and anytime I want a pocket-sized camera with fabulous output, either for convenience or safety.

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Canon EOS 70D Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm STM Lens

Canon EOS 70D Digital SLR Camera with 18-55mm STM Lens

Photo Credit: www.amazon.com

If I were ever to switch back to DSLR, the Canon 70D is the camera I would want. In fact, I spent hours debating between the two before I decided on the lighter weight option above. However, the 70D is the camera currently used by my photographer daughter, Sarah Albom.

With ISO from 100 - 12800, it shoots in nearly all conditions, providing RAW, jpeg, and FHD 1080p video output.

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Tenba Messenger DNA 8 Camera and iPad Mini Bag

Tenba Messenger DNA 8 Camera and iPad Mini Bag

Photo Credit: www.amazon.com

I looked around for a while before discovering the perfect camera bag for my mirrorless camera. Weatherproof, easy to open, and secure, it has compartments for all my camera gear, accessories, business cards, and enough personal items that I don’t need to carry anything else for an afternoon out. It even has a secret spot for a Kindle or iPad mini.

Available in four colours (dark copper is shown) and also in larger sizes.

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Sirui SUET1204 Carbon Fiber Tripod

Sirui SUET1204 Carbon Fiber Tripod

Photo Credit: www.amazon.com

I have one model down from this one, but the reduced weight of carbon fibre would have been a better choice. The tripod is quick to set up, has a ball mounted head, and upward folding legs, which make it more compact for carrying.

I found it to be the perfect trade-off between super lightweight and steady enough for long exposures like waterfalls.

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Ultra Slim Fader Variable Neutral Density Adjustable Lens Filter

Ultra Slim Fader Variable Neutral Density Adjustable Lens Filter

Photo Credit: www.amazon.com

This is the secret to deep rich colour and smooth flowing water. As it requires a longer exposure, a tripod is needed. It's available in a variety of sizes.

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Take a look at a few of amazing waterfalls. See if you can spot which were handheld and which are long exposure waterfall shots, then check out the specs below each image.

Haruru Falls in Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Haruru Falls in Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Shutter Speed: 1/100, Aperture: f/20, ISO: 200
Handheld
Multnomah falls, near Portland Oregon
Multnomah Falls, near Portland Oregon, USA
Shutter Speed: 1.6 sec, Aperture: f/14, ISO: 200
Tripod and ND filter
Fuipisia Falls in Samoa
Fuipisia Falls in Samoa
Shutter Speed: 1/125, Aperture: f/5.0, ISO: 200
Handheld
Salto Mbigua, Iguassu National Park, Misiones, Argentina. photo copyright Sarah E. Albom
Salto Mbigua, Iguazu National Park, Misiones, Argentina
Shutter Speed: 1/1000, Aperture: f/2.8, ISO: 200
Handheld
Erskine Falls in Lorne, Australia
Erskine Falls in Lorne, Australia
Shutter Speed: 1/5, Aperture: f/8, ISO: 200
Tripod
Erskine Falls in Lorne, Australia
Erskine Falls in Lorne, Australia
Shutter Speed: 1/50, Aperture: f/5.6, ISO: 640
Handheld
Waterfall in Kilarney National Park, Ireland
Waterfall in Killarney National Park, Ireland
Shutter Speed: 1/25, Aperture: f/3.5, ISO: 800
Handheld
Tvindefossen Falls between Flam to Voss in Norway
Tvindefossen Falls, Norway
Shutter Speed: 1/200, Aperture: f/10, ISO: 200
Handheld
Piroa Falls, New Zealand
Piroa Falls, New Zealand
Shutter Speed: 1/30, Aperture: f/9, ISO: 200
Handheld

If you found these tips on how to photograph waterfalls useful, please pin this on Pinterest:
Travel Photo Tips on How to photograph Waterfalls

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Will your next waterfall images use a long exposure? Please ask any questions on how to photograph waterfalls?

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Thanks for your nice post. They are great information and tips share for waterfalls. Really this article is very helpful for us Please keep it your writing.

    Reply

  5. I was trying to pick out my favorite waterfall photo but gave up because I like so many of them. I personally prefer the smooth water look but cannot seem to attain it with my point-and-shoot. There are manual settings that I could fiddle with, but I’m still unsure of what all the settings mean. This posts is actually quite helpful in that regard as now I have some sort of clue where to start. #WkendTravelInspiration

    Reply

  6. First off, your photos are so great! Love the settings and all the natural beauty. This post would be fantastic just with that. Tips are like frosting on the cake!

    Reply

  9. Great tips! Waterfalls are always such a treat to photograph. I love getting the smoother, almost mystical feel of the waterfall shots with the slower shutter speed! I never travel with a tripod though, so sometimes making sure I keep my hands still is a bit of a challenge!

    Reply

  10. I’m with you Rhonda. I love waterfalls, large ones, small ones fast ones and slow ones. I wished I lived near a waterfall so that I could see and hear the sound of the waterfall with the water falling down. I live in Essex County and the area has flat, very flat ground. The only thing Amherstburg has history, this area was involved with the war of 1812 and we have the Detroit River. Michigan is right across from where I live. I guess that’s OK.

    See ya Rhonda.

    Cruisin Paul

    Reply

    • We live near a waterfall, but it’s not exciting enough to make this page. Everyone lives near something interesting. I live in a country that has no European history as old as 1812.

      Reply

  11. I tested various settings but my biggest obstacle to take better photographs is that I’m often too lazy to take the tripod with. If it’s not that, the light is not right, too bright to smooth the water with a long aperture. I like your smooth waterfall with the bridge and the people on it, because it shows the dimensions.

    Reply

    • That waterfall is now hanging on my wall, it’s my favourite as well. As for light, have you tried bracketing your photos? That would be shooting the shot, then with a lower and higher exposure.

      Reply

  13. Great tips (and photos of course) Rhonda, particularly like how you’ve shown the same waterfall with two different shutter speeds. I love getting the smooth water look but currently don’t have a tripod or ND filters (on my shopping list). Only if I can find a flat surface can I get away with the slower shutter speed. Think I should head down to erskine falls when I’m back in Melbourne, they’re just stunning

    Reply

  16. I need to get a tripod. I have been playing with the shutter speed but cannot hold the camera still. So, I end up with a blurred background (or have to take many photos to see if I get one in focus). Love all your waterfall photos. I need to go and chase more waterfalls.

    Reply

  18. These are really useful tips – mostly for these kind of tips, i used to follow youtube; but here i think you have quite smartly given the illustrations and demonstrations.

    Reply

  21. Rhonda, this is so helpful, thank you! Pinned this post to reference the next time we travel to waterfalls. Can’t wait to play with the shutter speeds and see the different effects! Now to buy a tripod…

    Reply

  23. This is exactly what I was looking for last week as I would be seeing some waterfalls soon and I regret a bit that I did not get amazing shots like this in Norway.

    Thank you very much for the great tips. Bookmarked for sure! 🙂

    Reply

  24. I’m impressed with how many waterfalls you have visited. This is a really helpful guide to anyone looking to photograph them. I love the soft water effect, looks like time is standing still.

    Reply

  26. Thanks for these great tips, Rhonda! I love the surreal and magical effect of smooth water that you get using long exposure, but I like to travel light (hence no tripod), so I guess I’ll just admire others’ smooth waterfall photos like yours!

    Reply

  28. Thanks for the waterfall photography tips, Rhonda. I pinned them and I’m downloading your other photography tips/ There is always something to learn! I usually photograph waterfalls as rushing water as I rarely carry a tripod. I know I should, but my photos are mainly taken “on the run.”

    Reply

  29. Thanks for these tips. Just last week I was trying to figure out how to capture a photo of a waterfall with a specific look. I wish I would have these tips in hand. I love a good waterfall and it’s obvious that you do, as well.

    Reply

  30. I love taking photos of waterfalls and they are awesome wonders to look at. It was a bit hard at first to get that first best capture but after practise, I am getting there. Great tips here.

    Reply

  31. Excellent post, Rhonda. Long exposure, short exposure, neither method is right or wrong like you say. It all depends on what you want your picture to suggest. If you want to show the power of the raging waters of a waterfall, you’ll do “freeze” (short exposure), if you want a calmer, smoother (almost surreal) image of a waterfall you’ll use the longer exposure. This reminds me of my first time photographing a beautiful waterfall in Kauai from a tripod. I wanted the water to be as smooth as possible and I was so concentrated on getting that right that I totally forgot I was standing on a slippery rock (thank goodness not too high up).

    Reply

  32. Great tips! As a photographer, these all seem like common sense to me. But I’m sure they are not…in fact, I know they are not. A beginner photographer will find this article very helpful!

    Reply

  35. Shared with my friend too – he’s a photographer and I’m positive he’ll find the article interesting and usefull too. From my perspective, great pics 🙂

    Reply

  36. Your photographs of waterfalls are really pretty. Great post to help those with less experience understand the choices for their camera settings, and how these translate to frozen motion or motion blur within the water. My personal preference is the slow shutter speed style but both have their place!

    Reply

  37. We want to improve our waterfall taking skills…. but that would require actually seeing a waterfall for once haha It’s been a while! I guess we do too many city/town trips!

    Reply

  38. This is a really helpful post! I’m not a great photographer, and I’m certainly a newbie with things like moving water and night photography. Your photos are absolutely stunning!

    Reply

    • It’s probably the one we go to the most often on this page. There is a tiny waterfall in walking distance from our house, but even the best shot of it is not that flash.

      Reply

    • LOL – there is hope for every photographer. Better photography is a learned skill, although some people, like my daughter, seem to have a naturally good eye for the shot.

      Reply

  44. Thanks for the tip – I never knew to use sports mode on a point-and-shoot. I’ve used the burst mode at a concert to get the performer in action but I’m going to try sports for the waterfalls. Fantastic photos!

    Reply

    • I the settings on the point and shoot are given names for their most common uses, but they can all be used for different things once you understand what each does. Sports tries to freeze action, and that needs a fast shutter speed.

      Reply

  47. Thank You for these tips. Oh, I saw that You have been not visited Finland. Why not meet freely roaming reindeers in the nature on some of our Arctic Hills, maybe participating in the reindeer ride contest, which is open for everybody, making midsummer Cruise on some of our lake, visiting the Arctic Circle, visiting Samba Carnivals or spending a night inside the world’s biggest snow castle. There are so much to see and experience that You cannot imagine.

    Happy and safe travels.

    Reply

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