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Inspiring travel through photography

Home » Travel » Americas » South America » Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires: Artistic or Eerie?

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires: Artistic or Eerie?

Last Updated: December 15, 2022 // by Rhonda Albom // 53 Comments
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Most photographed angel in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires Argentina
Most photographed angel in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires - made famous because it is on the way to the tomb of Eva Peron.
One of the world's most beautiful cemeteries, a visit to the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina is like going to an outdoor art exhibition

Surrounded by huge and dramatically carved mausoleums, we strolled through the Recoleta Cemetery in wonderment. It’s neither the oldest nor the largest cemetery in Argentina, but it certainly is the most famous.

Intriguing rather than depressing, the intricately decorated, mostly art nouveau above-ground tombs draw you into the Buenos Aires’ Recoleta Cemetery.

Its vaults hold the remains of presidents, generals, and former first lady Eva Perón (Evita), plus thousands of others. With about 5,000 mausoleums, it is not surprising that there are eerie legends and fascinating stories.

Recoleta Cemetery Buenos Aries Argentina viewed from a balcony on the surrounding street
Recoleta Cemetery viewed from our hotel room’s balcony. From here it looks like a small city.

First, let Argentina inspire you …

Do it yourself, or take a Recoleta Cemetery tour?

The best choice we made was to hire a guide, a knowledgeable historian who could show us details we would never have found on our own. It’s easy to miss something otherwise.

For Spanish speakers, there is a free guided tour at 11 am (daily Tuesday-Sunday), with a second tour at either 2 pm or 3 pm, depending on the day.

We found a guide at the entrance. After a brief chat, we decided his fee for a private tour seemed reasonable, and his English was good. However, we were lucky that there was an available guide at the time. In retrospect, we might have booked a tour in advance.

After taking a look at the options, we are most impressed by this half-day Recoleta and Retiro tour.

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires

Highlights, legends, and ghost stories from Recoleta Cemetery

A visit to the Recoleta Cemetery is like touring an outdoor art exhibition. It is one of the most beautiful cemeteries in the world, with more than 90 of its mausoleums having been declared a national monuments.

We had seen it from our room, watched the sunrise over it, and finally, we walked through the gate with our guide.

Entrance to the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires Argentina
Entrance to the Recoleta Cemetery.

As we walked, the frequent loose tiles crackled under our feet, the sound reminiscent of breaking china. A chill ran down my spine, an eerie feeling as if perhaps the dead are trying to tell us to get out and leave them alone. We didn’t listen, we just kept walking.

Here are some of the stories we heard:

Rufina Cambacers: was she buried alive?

The local legend around Rufina Cambacers tells the story of a young woman who collapsed, was declared dead by three doctors, and was then buried. A few days later, the groundskeeper noticed that her coffin had moved and was damaged. When they opened it, they found her body, but now her hands and face were bruised, and there were scratches on the inside of the coffin.

On the mausoleum, her likeness is seen opening the gate to eternity.

Rufina Cambacers is opening the gate to eternity on her tomb
Tomb of Rufina Cambacers.

General Alvear’s prominent position

One of the first monuments we see as we enter the cemetery is that of General Alvear. It earned this placement when one of General Alvear’s sons commissioned the entrance gates to the cemetery and in doing so, made sure his family had a prime position.

Tomb of General Alvear in Argentina
Tomb of General Alvear.

The ghost of Luz Maria Garcia Velloso

Luz Maria Garcia Velloso died and was buried at age 15. Legend tells us that on some nights, her ghost went to bars with unsuspecting men. She would borrow their jacket, get it dirty, take it with her, and the men would find the jacket the following day at her tomb in the Recoleta Cemetery.

Tomb of Luz Maria Garcia Velloso in Argentina
Our guide tells us the story of Luz Maria Garcia.

The final resting place of Eva Perón

Loved by the working class, first lady Eva Perón died of cancer in 1952 at age 33. While her body ultimately ended up in a secure bunker in her family’s mausoleum at Recoleta Cemetery, it was missing or hidden for nearly 20 years. You can read the entire story here: The 20-year odyssey of Eva Peron’s body. It is certainly not the most ornate, but there is no doubt that Eva Perón’s tomb is the most visited in the Recoleta Cemetery.

The body of Eva Peron was finally laid to rest in her family's mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires in October 1976.
The body of Eva Perón was finally laid to rest in her family’s mausoleum in Recoleta Cemetery in October 1976.

Why is this the most photographed angel in Buenos Aires Recoleta Cemetery?

The most photographed angel in the Recoleta Cemetery is seated and looks a bit forlorn. He was made famous not because of who he is or protects but rather because he is on the walking path to the tomb of Eva Perón, the most visited of the mausoleums.

Most photographed angel in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires Argentina
Most photographed angel in Recoleta Cemetery.

Stone tomb of Thomas Guido

Thomas Guido’s mausoleum is made of stones from the Andes mountains and has never leaked during the rain. Notice the green column to the right of Guido’s tomb. This is the marker for Admiral Guillermo Brown’s mausoleum. He is the Irish-born founder of the Argentina Navy.

Thomas Guido mausoleum made of stones from Andes mountains
Thomas Guido mausoleum.

Roverano tomb supports immigrants

Roverano, an immigrant himself, owned a successful cafe and represented newly arrived immigrants in Argentina before his death. His family rose to fortune, affording him an elaborate spot in the cemetery.

Roverano tomb in Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Roverano mausoleum.

Upkeep of an old cemetery

The Recoleta Cemetery opened in 1822 and is still used. In fact, there was a funeral the week before we visited. Individual families own each mausoleum and continue to bury family members in them. Families upkeep the crypts, and when they don’t, they deteriorate. Abandoned tombs cannot be sold until a family member is found. Once sold, the bodies must be moved, just like moving furniture out when you sell a house.

Personally, I find the dilapidated tombs fascinating, albeit a bit creepy. They remind me of the derelict Sheraton we visited on Rarotonga Island.

The majority of mausoleums are well-maintained. As we had our morning coffee on our balcony overlooking the cemetery, we frequently saw workers painting, cleaning, or otherwise tending to the various tombs.

A few of the abandoned mausoleums

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Notice the weeds growing on the unkempt structure
Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
This one looks like the scene for a horror movie.
Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Most of the mausoleums hold multiple bodies.
Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Notice the broken chain and lock. Would you be tempted to go in?

Pro-tip: Watch children carefully around the abandoned tombs, and do not let them enter any of the abandoned mausoleums as there can be up to a 6-metre drop in the dark.

Things to notice

If you know where and when to look, you can find some lovely surprises by looking through the windows of some of the tombs.

Stained glass viewed through a window

Stained glass inside one of the tombs at Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Stained glass inside one of the tombs.

Peering through the cross on the door

Recoleta Cemetery
Chaves Family mausoleum. The family-owned the first department store outside of the UK.

There are bodies below your feet

It is not just the mausoleums that are owned by the families. The property underneath them is also family-owned. In fact, the property line can be seen running down the pavement.

Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina

Everything has a meaning

While the religious symbols are usually obvious, everything on the mausoleums has a meaning, from the cherub to the direction a hand is facing. If you want to know more, check out: Stories in Stone: A Field Guide to Cemetery Symbolism and Iconography.

Jose Paz mausoleum
Angels, cherubs, and other art on the Jose Paz mausoleum.

Where to stay: Recoleta hotels, Buenos Aires

We opted to stay at Sileo Hotel overlooking the cemetery. It was a perfect choice.

Sileo is an ideal mix of an Argentinean boutique hotel and classic luxury. The incredible view from our balcony (we had the terrace suite) was just the tip of the iceberg. Our room had a bed so comfortable I hardly wanted to get up in the morning, although the delicious breakfast lured me out.

All this is complemented by ever-changing art displays in the lobby and lower level and an ideal Buenos Aires location in the heart of the Recoleta neighbourhood. Reserve your room or suite at Sileo Hotel

⇒ Or, check other Buenos Aires hotels View from hotel balcony in Recoleta Buenos Aires Argentina

The moon casts an eeriness over the cemetery at night (it is neither open nor lit up overnight). This was our view from Sileo Hotel. Recoleta is a fun neighbourhood and relatively safe to walk around at night.

The streets are filled with restaurants, many with outdoor seating, and the Recoleta Mall is just outside one corner of the cemetery wall. The neighbourhood is also home to a fascinating bookstore, a fine arts museum, and much more.

Practical information and tips on visiting the Recoleta Cemetery

  • Entry to the cemetery is free.
  • The cemetery is open daily from 9 am to 5 pm.
  • Just outside the main entrance is a kiosk that sells maps very inexpensively. If you are going in on your own, stop here first and purchase a Recoleta Cemetery map. Evita’s grave is number 26 on the map.
  • Go in the afternoon as many mausoleums containing stained glass shine their colours later in the day.
  • Take a tour, either in a group or private, or know you will miss a lot.
  • Don’t just go in to find Evita’s grave. As you saw here, there are many interesting and hidden things to see in the cemetery.
  • There are bathrooms just inside the cemetery entrance.
  • For more information, visit the cemetery’s official page on the government website.
  • Recoleta Cemetery is just one of many cool things to do in Buenos Aires or the larger South America region. 
  • First time-visitors to Argentina should start here: Argentina Travel Tips: A Guide for First-Time Visitors

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The most photographed angel in the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
Legends in the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires
One of the world's most beautiful cemeteries, a visit to the Recoleta Cemetery in Buenos Aires, Argentina is like going to an outdoor art exhibition

Do you think the Buenos Aires’ Recoleta Cemetery is Artistic or Eerie?

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Disclaimer: While in Buenos Aires, we worked alongside Travel Buenos Aires, the local tourism board. However, the opinions expressed here are strictly our own.

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Category: South AmericaTag: Argentina, Cemetery, Creepy Places, haunted places

About Rhonda Albom

Capturing the essence of travel through photography, Rhonda Albom is the primary author and photographer at Albom Adventures. She is an American expat based in New Zealand. She travels the world with her husband.

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Barry Levitt

    September 27, 2021 at 12:14 pm

    I have been to Buenos Aires and visited the Recoleta cemetery. My visit did not afford me the time to go through it as much as you did. Nevertheless, your photos reminded me of a number of mausoleums that I did see, including the one of Evita. Thanks for uploading them. Close inside the entrance to the cemetery is a large mausoleum which has carved into its face, a woman (perhaps an angel) apparently lighting a Jewish 7 day Menorah, above which is a crucifix. On the base is carved the name, Dorreco Ortiz Basualdo. If you saw it, did your Guide give you any input about it? Had the person had a religious conversion? Intriguing.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      September 28, 2021 at 6:11 pm

      Sorry, but I didn’t see it.

      Reply
  2. Travel Tuesday

    February 13, 2019 at 12:41 am

    Amazing photos, Rhonda. It really is a “city of the dead”.

    Reply
  3. hilary

    February 11, 2019 at 4:56 pm

    This cemetery reminds me a lot of the cemeteries in New Orleans. Beautiful and just a little bit creepy, but fascinating as well. We usually visit one whenever we find ourselves in NOLA. We have a ghost story like the one you tell here about the woman who borrows the jacket. In fact our tour guide told it to us on my Haunted LA tour. Great post!

    Reply
  4. Garth

    February 10, 2019 at 10:28 am

    I think it’s both artistic and eerie. The abandoned graves look incredible and yes straight from a horror movie. Hoping to visit Buenos Aires one day! Will pin for future reference, thanks for sharing something different off the tourist trail.

    Reply
  5. Gina Gao

    February 10, 2019 at 9:39 am

    This looks so amazing! Thank you for sharing!

    Reply
  6. Carrie Ann Karstunen

    February 10, 2019 at 5:02 am

    I would love to take a tour of Recoleta cemetery, I find it both eerie and artistic! I’ve spent hours in Père Lachaise in Paris as well as several cemeteries in New Orleans. There’s just something about mausoleums that fascinates me and creeps me out at the same time! You took some great photos – I especially like the tomb of Rufina Cambacers. I love Art Nouveau, and that one is just exquisite! Thanks for the tip to go on a guided tour to show you things you might miss, and to hear all of the stories and legends.

    Reply
  7. Sara

    February 10, 2019 at 4:17 am

    You’ve captured some beautiful images of the artistic parts of the cemetery. I love the stained glass photo… though I was a bit unsettled to learn that there are open spaces with 6 meter drops… that’s terrifying! (Obviously I wouldn’t be walking in – but still… yikes!) I think old cemeteries are so beautiful, but I’m really not a fan of any cemeteries. I do love seeing the photos though.

    Reply
  8. Liana Moore

    February 9, 2019 at 11:41 am

    How could I resist clicking through to read about a cemetery? I never think to visit any, but should. I have quite a sharp memory of one we visited while on a walking tour of New Orleans several years back.

    Reply
  9. Jill

    February 9, 2019 at 2:05 am

    I’m always the first to hire a guide but the husband thinks more in the do-it-yourself way. What a fascinating place to visit and hiring the guide let you in on all the stories. It’s fairly reminiscent of the cemeteries in New Orleans that are also fascinating to walk around – just not as famous.

    Reply
  10. Clare

    February 8, 2019 at 8:16 am

    Oh my goodness, Rhonda, these stories are absolutely fascinating! I really love going to places like this and uncovering all the great myths and facts there. You could set a novel here, couldn’t you?

    Reply
  11. Tanza Erlambang

    February 8, 2019 at 6:38 am

    incredible tombs in cemetery… great shots.
    have a wonderful day

    Reply
  12. Tilly Horseman

    February 8, 2019 at 6:33 am

    Wow, totally fascinating! I find mausoleums and cemetery’s like this beautiful and not creepy (though I wouldn’t want to go to one at night) – i remember touring one in Prague many years ago and was completely fascinated by the architecture and sculpture found in them.
    Think going on a tour to hear about the people and families buried there is a great idea, otherwise it is just a case of admiring of the tombs. Love the tomb of Thomas Guido here. Reminds me of good old British dry stone walls!

    Reply
  13. Sharon

    February 8, 2019 at 6:28 am

    This is really like a little city. Those are such tall, large resting places. The angel on the way to Eva Peron’s grave is a work of art. The most fascinating for me would be the abandoned graves, with the weeds growing. Those make you stop and ponder life and death, don’t they?!

    Reply
  14. Janis

    February 8, 2019 at 6:26 am

    This looks incredible, I do have a bit of a fascination with cemeteries & graveyards. I can’t pass one without popping in. It’s the history and the intriguing stories that these places hold, that I find amazing.

    Love the story of Luz Maria Garcia Velloso and how interesting about Eva Peron, I’m going to have to read more about it.

    Reply
  15. Grand Adventure Story

    February 8, 2019 at 2:51 am

    Love the apocryphal stories. They really bring the place to life (excuse the pun).

    Reply
  16. Esther

    February 7, 2019 at 10:42 pm

    I think visiting cemeteries is interesting (and yes, that probably does make me a bit weird), but I enjoyed Père Lachaise in Paris, the Jewish Cemetary in Prague and the grand cemetery in Havana. How people treat their dead says a lot about their culture.

    Reply
  17. Handmade Jewelry Haven

    February 6, 2019 at 1:21 pm

    Wow, you had a birds eye view on your little metropolis!
    May I ask how much you paid for the tour?
    Just curious on how much to expect to pay for this.

    – Lisa

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 6, 2019 at 10:36 pm

      I believe he wanted about 1200 pesos, which is about $30 US dollars for a private tour for all three of us.

      Reply
  18. Paul Pietrangelo

    February 6, 2019 at 10:52 am

    It’s amazing what some cemeteries that we see are like. Your’s is gigantic. While I was on an excursion in Barbados I saw a 17th century church and cemetery. It was very odd because of the sizes. I’ve already arranged for me to be cremated along my wife and daughter and placed in the same mausoleum that my parents are in. Weird talking about this but reality is reality. See ya Rhonda.

    Cruisin Paul

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 6, 2019 at 10:36 pm

      A 17th-century cemetery would be much older than the one I wrote about here, as it was opened in the 19th century. As for our arrangements, we have none.

      Reply
  19. Amy Franks

    February 6, 2019 at 8:38 am

    You know me, I love cemeteries not for the dead that live there but for the history and life stories of each person. I think it’s very beautiful.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 6, 2019 at 9:09 am

      You would definitely want a knowledgeable guide. There are so many stories. I just touched on a few here.

      Reply
  20. Crystal Marie

    February 6, 2019 at 7:10 am

    I’d say both artistic AND eerie. Those the details on those tombs and how tall and wide they are is pretty incredible.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 6, 2019 at 9:09 am

      It’s the height and the close proximity to each other that gives it the eerieness.

      Reply
  21. Hilary

    February 6, 2019 at 1:56 am

    Hi Rhonda – I can quite see why you’d be fascinated to look around the Cemetery – but am glad you had the guide, while advising us should we visit, get one to tell us what’s going on etc … it must offer so much, if we care to look around and see. Gorgeous photos – and thanks for the stories – cheers Hilary

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 6, 2019 at 9:08 am

      The guide was the best decision we had made. We had wandered in earlier, and while we could enjoy it from an artistic view, the stories really brought it to life.

      Reply
  22. Luci

    February 5, 2019 at 8:04 pm

    I would get a guide if I ever go to a different city for a tour. Even thou it is cemetery it is a very beautiful place and it has so much history.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 8:27 pm

      We don’t often get a guide, as we usually explore on our own. However, some places, like Recoleta Cemetery are just better with a deeper understanding.

      Reply
  23. Ressa

    February 5, 2019 at 5:51 pm

    Wow, I’ve never seen a cemetery like that before! It definitely does look eery, but if I were to walk around there during the day, I would not mind looking at the different tombs. I believe that it is a part of our history and it should be admired and respected.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 8:26 pm

      Looking into the different tombs was actually quite interesting.

      Reply
  24. L. Diane Wolfe

    February 5, 2019 at 2:01 pm

    It’s beautiful. I don’t think I’d want to explore at night, at least not alone.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 8:23 pm

      I was glad it wasn’t open at night, as we overlooked it so we were close, and we had one of our teens who generally likes things that I find a bit macabre.

      Reply
  25. Nancy

    February 5, 2019 at 1:19 pm

    I love visiting old cemeteries. This one looks fascinating!

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 8:22 pm

      It’s not just an old cemetery, it’s still in use. Families still bury their loved ones in the mausoleums.

      Reply
  26. Vivienne

    February 5, 2019 at 12:57 pm

    Wow! What a fascinating adventure! The mausoleums look amazing and… creepy that the same time lol But they also look like pieces of amazing artwork. I wouldn’t mind visiting there just to see for myself.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 1:15 pm

      I hope you get here someday, it is so much more impressive live than in photos.

      Reply
  27. LadyLebz

    February 5, 2019 at 11:16 am

    This is so awesome – we learn new things every day 🙂 It’s definitely on my travel bucket list 🙂

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 12:09 pm

      And it is well worth the visit. It’s fascinating, and quite eerie once you hear some of the stories.

      Reply
  28. Ryan K Biddulph

    February 5, 2019 at 10:59 am

    The scale of the place looks so epic Rhonda. That alone makes it worth the visit. Plus Eva Peron and other celebs resting there makes it quite fascinating.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 12:08 pm

      Have you not been yet? I am sure you will get to Buenos Aires some day, and the cemetery is a must see.

      Reply
  29. stevebethere

    February 5, 2019 at 10:54 am

    Thanks for the interesting tour, I actually liked the cemetery photo it LQQKED nice great view afar too but I can see how you thinking it was a bit eerie overlooking it heheh!

    Have a tombtastic week Rhonda ➡

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 12:08 pm

      I really liked the view. We stayed in Buenos Aires on two separate times on our recent trip, and we enjoyed Recoleta so much that we changed our second hotel to put us back in that neighbourhood, same hotel, same view (different room).

      Reply
  30. Cyndi Buchanan

    February 5, 2019 at 10:17 am

    This is so beautiful and eery at the same time. I would love to visit. Although I’m not sure I would be brave enough to go at night.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 10:28 am

      No worries, it closes at 6 pm, the only way in at night would be illegally.

      Reply
  31. Alex J. Cavanaugh

    February 5, 2019 at 9:57 am

    Don’t go to a bar with a strange woman – check!
    It would be fascinating to explore. Would probably take all day.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 10:28 am

      LOL – Good plan, but if you violate it, don’t give her your jacket!

      Reply
  32. Sandee

    February 5, 2019 at 9:27 am

    I don’t think it’s either. It’s just different than what many of us in the states are used too. I like it.

    Have a fabulous day, Rhonda. ♥

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 9:55 am

      LOL – I think you would love it. It’s fascinating to walk around and here the stories.

      Reply
  33. Carol

    February 5, 2019 at 9:00 am

    I would say that a cemetery can be both artistic and eerie – at least this one covers the gamut. Beautiful statues and buildings.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 9:03 am

      You said it, this one sure does cover the gamut.

      Reply
  34. Lydia C. Lee

    February 5, 2019 at 8:34 am

    I always go to cemetaries when I travel. The old European ones have brilliant statues and in Italy there are little toys or knick knacks regularly put out by the family members tending the grave. It’s an insight into history and cultures. Love that angel.

    Reply
    • Rhonda Albom

      February 5, 2019 at 9:02 am

      I agree, and we often visit cemeteries for the same reason. But this one is different. It’s almost like an eerie and classic art museum all jumbled together.

      Reply

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