Large windows and open balconies signified our arrival to the Mellah, the old Jewish quarter in Fes Morocco. These dwellings stand in contrast to the typical homes of Muslim families with their often small and hidden windows.
Jewish history in Morocco dates back to the 8th-century, and as recently as 100 years ago over 250,000 Jews lived in Morocco. Substantial emigration began with the establishment of the state of Isreal in 1948, and the Sephardic communities in Morocco declined dramatically. Today it is estimated that only 3,000 Jews remain in Morocco, most in Casablanca with only 150 still in Fes.
The appearance of balconies on the houses was a sign that we had found the old Jewish quarter.
These are in contrast to the traditional Arab houses that have huge indoor courtyards, but a limited view to the outside.
Even with a map in hand, the labyrinth of narrow streets running through the old Jewish quarter was challenging. We were in search of the Synagogue Ibn Danan.
Impressed that we were able to find it so easily, we took this photo of the girls standing under the synagogue’s sign before going in.
This is what it looked like beyond the entrance. Confused, we cautiously walked to the end of the narrow hallway where we found a not so welcoming flight of stairs to the left. As this was the only open doorway, hubby went up. It led straight into someone’s apartment. Luckily, the man asleep on the couch didn’t notice him, and we left in a hurry.
At this point, we decided we needed a bit of assistance. Despite warnings from our Lonely Planet Morocco guidebook about “false guides” in Morocco, hubby found a guide who turned out to be quite knowledgeable. He took us first through this doorway.
Next, we walked down a long hallway. Some of the windows overlook the Jewish cemetery.
We were not able to enter this old Jewish cemetery, but we could see it through a fence. The cemetery overlooks the newer portion of the city of Fes.
Our guide pointed out that in a Jewish cemetery in Morocco, graves can face any direction, while in a Muslim cemetery, all graves face Mecca.
Next, he led us back to the synagogue sign and into the blue hallway we had previously left. He located the caretaker who opened one of the doors in the hallway. We walked up a small flight of stairs and entered this beautifully restored 17th-century synagogue. This is similar to our experience getting into the Jewish synagogue in Marrakesh.
We felt honoured to be shown the Torah in the synagogue.
The caretaker also uncovered and showed us this hole that allows family members to protect their women by keeping watch over the mikva bath below.
Stray cats seemed to be everywhere in Fes, including the Jewish quarter.
Practical Information:
- We have visited Fes twice, as it is my favourite of the imperial cities in Morocco (Casablanca, Rabat, Marrakech, Meknes, and Fes).
- The Mellah (old Jewish quarter) is near the royal palace and well outside the old medina. You will need to locate the caretaker if you want to enter the synagogue.
- Since 1999, the Jewish quarter of Fes has been slowly undergoing restoration with the aid of UNESCO funds.
- This short video highlights the history of Jews in Morocco.
- We stayed at Riad Al Atik in the old medina and recommend it if you are looking for a more traditional stay. If you prefer a more western experience, there is a Marriott and a Ramada in town.
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Have you been to the old Jewish Quarter in Fes? Did you know it existed?
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Spectacular place, Rhonda! Love the architecture in this place!
Can you imagine what must have been like in its glory days?
Another great post with beautiful photos. Even outside the medina, Fes felt like a tricky maze so I’m not surprised you need a guide. The Jewish quarter definitely felt distinct from the medina but we didn’t spend too long in the quarter on our tour. You seem to have seen far more than we did.
Thanks David, I am thrilled people like my new look. We were not on a tour, so we had the option to spend as much or as little time as we wanted in each spot. We loved Fes, and returned for an extra almost week before we left Morocco.
Beautiful pictures and the place looks fascinating for sure.I have always read mixed reviews about Morocco. Either people have liked the place or hated. Had no idea about the Jewish roots and good to know that it is funded by UNESCO. Unfortunately, Jewish population has drastically declined over the years.
I am on the side of “love Morocco,” but I will agree, people seem to either love it or hate it. I was also surprised to learn about the Jewish history.
Very cool that the Jewish quarter of Fes has been recieving UNESCO funds – it looks like quite the fascinating area to explore. Really interesting mix of traditional architecture – I’m glad that your guide turned out to be knowledgeable and didn’t lead you astray!
I thought so too, and was glad they are renovating it.
I’ve only been to Tangier, and I am desperate to see more of Morocco. I’ve always wondered which of the imperial cities is best to visit, so I appreciate your candid insight into Fes. It looks amazing!
Each has their own distinctive personality and you can take the train to each of them. Fes was our favourite followed by Rabat, Meknes, Marrakech and then Casablanca. However, Marrakech is really is a must see, even though it wasn’t a favourite.
Oh, Rhonda, your pictures are so beautiful and so evocative of the places you visit! Morocco is definitely one of the places I hope to see before I’m too old to travel. I didn’t know there were so many Jews living there, but I am not surprised that Morocco declined after they emigrated to Israel. It happened in Romania too, in many parts of Bucharest where we had a lot of Jewish population.
Plan the trip and go. Morocco is one of my favourite places I have visited. Everything about it was interesting and photogenic. I am guessing I have 1000s of photos from our month there. As for Romania, I didn’t know that either.
It was only last summer when I was there, I am doing a post of Fes soon, I have some photos ready too
Have a lovely wek Ronda
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I look forward to seeing your photos. I love Fes. We stayed there twice.
Fes is one of the places I want to see in Morocco. I love how your pictures captured the scene and gave us a peek into your interesting adventure. Narrow streets usually lead to exciting experiences.
We love to venture off the beaten path and walk the back roads of a city. Sometimes they lead to great adventure, other times not so much.
How fascinating. Had no idea that there was a Jewish quarter in Morroco. It’s wonderful traveling and understanding the local culture. So rich in history with stories that don’t always make it out. Is there any reason why you could go into the cemetery? Glad you were able to get a guide for your visit. Truly interesting article. Thanks for sharing.
There are Jewish quarters in each of the imperial cities of Morocco. I am sure there was a reason we couldn’t go into the cemetery, but no one told us. In Marrakech, only Jews were welcomed into the Jewish cemetery.
I had no idea about this. Great shots of a lot of history.
Have a fabulous day. ☺
Thanks Sandee. Morocco had a thriving Jewish population at one point.