As we travelled through Morocco, we visited a variety of very different Moroccan markets. While most cater to tourists as well as locals, we found the more traditional Moroccan markets to be a window into everyday life.
One of our favourites was a traditional Moroccan market in Rissani, an eastern city situated at the base of the Sahara Desert. It is the largest city near Erg Chebbi, and the largest sand desert in Morocco. Here, we were within 50 km of the border with Algeria.
Rissani’s Moroccan market is well known in the region. It is quite different to the souqs, medinas, and other markets we had visited in the bigger cities. Although, with 675 stalls/shops, the Rissani market seemed endless.
From there, as we travelled on our own, we veered off the beaten path and discovered a purely locals market. Much smaller, this second market was a big contrast to the one in Rissani.
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Discovering the Rissani market
We could have visited the market on our own but opted to hire a registered guide so we could better understand what we saw. He took us to the areas of the markets selling animals, as well as to the food, spices, and other goods. He showed us some fascinating work, as well as traditional things that were new to us, like the donkey parking lot.
Our guide too us to his friend’s shop. Here we enjoyed mint tea and dates. We knew our guide most likely got a commission on any transaction we made, but that was okay. I purchased a lovely silver teapot. While we probably overpaid a bit by Moroccan standards, we were happy to walk away with a piece made with such expert craftsmanship.
Bicycle and donkey parking lot
What made our guide so valuable to us was the details that he provided. At first, when I saw all the donkeys, I thought perhaps it was the animal market. Our guide quickly corrected me. This is a donkey parking lot. It’s the place where people who travel to the market via donkey leave their animals tied up while they do their shopping.
We also saw a bicycle parking area at the market.
Our guide in front of the donkey parking lot Bicycles area. Donkey parking lot.
A separate area of the Moroccan market selling animals
The livestock market was new to us. Here they sold cattle, goats, and sheep. Camels, on the other hand, are only sold in the desert. In retrospect, we probably stood and stared just a bit longer than we should have.
We were taken here first, as it both opens and closes earlier than the main Moroccan market. Our guide worried that we wouldn’t see very many animals. And in fact, he told us the best had been picked and sold before we arrived.
Cows and calves for sale. A goat for sale. Negotiating price
Moroccan markets sell spices and other foods
Of all the Moroccan markets we encountered in the country the spice markets are always my favourite. There is something alluring about the stacks of colourful powders, herbs, leaves, roots, and there is always at least one special Moroccan spice mix.
Other food for sale in the market that we noticed included fruit, vegetables, meat (including animal heads), chickens and rabbits (still alive), fish, herbs and dates. There were also cafes and small family-run restaurants.
Moroccan markets sell other products and goods
Aside from food and animals, there was a huge variety of items for sale. We saw few rugs shops like the one we visited, but we did see plenty of clothing (some commercially made, others sewn on the spot), utensils for kitchen or shaving, cosmetics, Moroccan jewellery, copper pots, tools, shoes, and traditional clothing.
The Rissani market also has areas for carpentry and other commercial activities.
There were many crafts and upcycled products. Shoes with a sole made from old tires was one of the more interesting things we saw. Without our guide, we would have missed it, or at least dismissed it as junk.
Practical information on visiting the Risanni Moroccan market
- The Risanni market is open all day on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, although the animal auctions and sales tend to happen early in the day.
- This is one of the traditional Moroccan markets that also attracts overseas travellers.
- Even before we had parked our car, several potential guides had targeted us. We chose one who spoke excellent English and had an official licence hanging around his neck. He turned out to be a perfect choice.
- A guide is not required. However, we were glad to have a guide.
- A “plate made from palm tree paper by women in old ksour” is Rissani’s top souvenir according to Wikitravel.
- If you don’t have a car, you can get to Risanni via CTM bus, with one bus per day from Marrakech and two from Fes.
A second traditional Moroccan market
As we continued driving, we turned off the main road and came upon a Moroccan market for produce. As we approached, this Moroccan market looked like nothing more than a gathering of people on the streets. but once we stopped and got out, we could see that it was a market.
Many of the farmers laid blankets on the ground for their produce.
Getting to the Sahara
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Earlier, we had travelled by train from Fes to Marrakesh stopping in major cities along the way (Meknes, Rabat, and Casablanca). We found much of the areas within walking distance to the train stations catered to tourists. From Marrakesh, we rented a car and drove west to Essaouira, south along the Atlantic coast. Then, as we drove east to the Sahara desert, things changed, and tradition had a tighter hold.
See our complete itinerary: Morocco Road Trip: Marrakech to the Sahara Desert
If you are apprehensive about self-driving in Morocco, there are plenty of tours available in a variety of price ranges. We prefer private tours, but know group tours are quite popular. For a range of options from companies we trust, check out:
⇒ Click here to see Moroccan desert tour options from Viator
Where to stay in the Sahara
We stayed just outside Merzouga, at Kasbah Azalay. The proprietor and other staff members are warm, welcoming and helpful. They offered Sahara tours to interesting spots, dune bashing, sand skiing, and other options like overnight desert excursions. The food was outstanding, the toilets western, and the rooms comfortable and secure. It’s where I will stay if I am every lucky enough to return to this part of the world.
⇒ Click here to check availability at Kasbah Azalay Merzouga
Of, if you prefer, there are four hotel options in Rissani and over 150 options in Merzouga.
⇒ Click here to check availability of hotels in Rissani or Click here to check availability of hotels in Merzouga
Travel planning tips
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Flights: We use Skyscanner to find all the available flight options at the best prices.
Rental Car: We always use RentalCars.com, a rental car search engine with no hidden costs.
Accommodations: We use Tripadvisor to check ratings and book lodging when we travel.
Travel Insurance: We purchase insurance that covers medical and travel emergencies when we head overseas. We start with World Nomads.
Packing Tips: Get a free copy of our packing light checklist when you sign up for our mailing list. (We pack light, yet have everything we need.)
**Find more money-saving resources on our Travel Resources page.
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Do you prefer tourist or traditional Moroccan markets?
Lisa
I love markets too, and it’s a shame we missed seeing this one when we were in Morocco. Risanni looks so vibrant, and the colours are eye-popping too! I don’t blame you for liking the spice markets, they have such interesting smells!
Jennifer Melroy
I have come to terms with know the guide is going to take me to his friends shop so he can make a commission. It’s part of life. What I don’t like, is when they get really pushy on selling me something.
I love spice markets. I tend to go crazy and buy way more spices that one could ever use. Bring on the cinnamon.
Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields
David and I are currently in discussions about Morocco. I want to go. He only wants to go if I will agree to us hiring a car when we get there. What do you think – is it safe to drive ourselves? I know what you mean about being the only non-locals. Today D and I went to a market in a little town in Mexico. As the only foreigners there we felt like we were the tourist attraction.
Anne Howard
You are so right about local markets being the window into a culture! Love that you rented a car and got away from the touristy versions. Morocco can be a little intimidating but your tips broke it down and made it feel more approachable. We’d really like to go to Morocco. I lived in southern Spain and still kick myself for not going!
Juliette S
I feel like I would need several days just to explore all these markets! A great insight into local life and the hard working people who live there. I would love to see the spice market too – I think that would no doubt be my favourite! But also awesome to see people like blacksmiths hard at work with their traditional methods. I think a guide would be very helpful as I imagine it would get quite overwhelming.
Alli
This is such a dream for me! I absolutely love visiting the local markets when I travel. This market reminds me of the bazaars I visited in Istanbul. I just love all the spices and trinkets! I could easily explore for hours on end!
Rhonda Albom
Yes, it reminded me a bit of Istanbul as well, although where we were in Istanbul was more commercial.
Ash
I have a feeling that if you return to this market in Rissani after 5, 10 or more years, nothing much will change. That parking lot for donkeys will still be there. Time seemed to stand still and the place was very much detached from the amenities of the modern world. It has maintained its innocence and for the locals the traditional way of going through with their daily business.
Julia Jerg
What a great and insightful post – Morocco is still on my list and seeing your pictures is again a reminder that I need to go there soon! I would definitely enjoy the spice market and drive around like you did. But the animal market, oh no, poor little goats :-/ But this seems to be part of it and perhaps I would go there too… The donkey parking lot is really so funny, I had to laugh out loud!
Megan Jerrard
I would love to take a self drive vacation in Morocco like you did. And I would love to include a stop to experience Rissani’s traditional market . Clever to have organized a guide for the market – definitely sounds like it’s a great choice for more context as you make your way through, especially as this is a cultural experience 🙂 I’ve dreamed of visiting the spice markets in Morocco. The donkey parking lot is too funny!!
Vanessa Brune
I’d love to visit a traditional Moroccan market one day! I’d be a bit concerned about it, to be honest, as I don’t feel comfortable with people trying to sell you things you don’t want to have but I think having a local guide is an awesome idea to prevent any miscommunication!
Indrani
I am sure Morocco is every travelers’ interest. The local life there is so different, I would very much like to experience it. The market scene is so interesting. And for the first time I saw a donkey parking lot.
Ruth
I have never heard of this city before but the market is pretty cool. I am a big fan of markets and the more authentic the better. I think I will go crazy in Morocco with all the markets. I love countries where every city has a major market (or more than one).
Kathleen
So interesting. I love finding local markets. There was a Spice Market when we lived in Martinique that I really enjoyed. It was full of local spices, handmade bags and of course, trinkets. My husband used to live in Morocco, in Agadir, and told us all about the markets. He even brought us back some great gifts from his dealings. He loved bartering with them.
Elaine Masters
You and your family are so intrepid. I remember markets that startled me in North Sulawesi – dogs for sale, chicken heads also, and we had to watch where we stepped. Still I wouldn’t have missed it for anything. Markets are great for getting a local feel.
Rhonda Albom
North Sulawesi sounds pretty intrepid to me.
Jill
I used to live in Amish country in Ohio and our supermarket had two hitching posts for the horse and buggies – which was quite unusual here but…oh, how I love that donkey parking lot. I’ve never seen anything like it. And of course, all your other photos, too. Looks like a great visit.
Rhonda Albom
Two cultures living side by side is even more interesting in a way.
Ryan Biddulph
I really dig the donkey parking lot. I wonder if valet service is available? Morocco seems fun; one Middle Eastern land we plan to visit and enjoy.
Deborah
I’ve not been to Morocco but these look gorgeous. And I love that you mention they’re not to stereotypical tourist markets. It’s usually obvious if there aren’t a lot of other foreigners around.
And I LOVE the donkey parking lot!
Rhonda Albom
We prefer to get more of the culture in our experience, so we gravitate towards local places rather than the tourist options.
Natalie
Hi Rhonda – I found your blog from the Loving Life link. I enjoyed reading your post and the lovely photos as ‘m planning to visit Morocco later this year.
Rhonda Albom
I love Morocco. We went for a week and stayed for a month. I would go back in a heartbeat. I wrote lots on it, so be sure to check out some of my articles on the rest of Morocco.
amanda
What a wonderful post! I would so love to take pictures here and explore Morocco
Amy
I just love all the colours of the spices and rugs – think if I had the money I’d buy everything there.
Rhonda Albom
What would you do with it all? You can’t bring those open spices back to New Zealand with you.
Wednesday Elf
What a fascinating tour of these Moroccan markets. Loved the Donkey Parking Lot. 🙂
Rhonda Albom
That donkey parking lot made me smile. Without our guide, we would have walked by without giving it much thought.
Alex J. Cavanaugh
The farmer’s market would’ve been fascinating.
Smart to reuse old tires and junk. Might be something our country needs to do more often.
Rhonda Albom
I thought that was pretty cool using an old tire for the sole of shoe, and it would last forever,
Sandee
I felt kind of sorry for the animals tethered to that line. I know you don’t want them to get away, but still. I chuckled at the donkey park. Okay, they are tethered there too. My favorite is all the spices. So very colorful.
Have a fabulous day, Rhonda. ♥
Rhonda Albom
I felt sorry for the animals also. At least they are only like that when they are for sale during the limited animal markets.
Tracy @ Ascending Butterfly
Great shots! 🙂
nicole
Oh I am so in love with your site and with your adventurous life.
emily
Well, you’ve got to park them somewhere!
Elyn
We used to have a donkey cart that picked up the garbage in Nanjing. It could carry so much. Are these donkeys for taxi carts or work carts?
Rhonda
LOL – these are working donkeys. It was market day. There was also an animal market, but these were the donkeys that belonged to the vendors or shoppers. They are not for sale.
Edi
Too funny! Not something you see at the local grocery store 🙂
Sofia
That is quite interesting.
Amelia
This is an awesome collection of pictures! I have never even considered anything like this before, it’s good to see other parts of the world!
Paula J
Appears all the donkey get along. I wonder what happens if there’s a little disagreement lol.
Rhonda
I guess they would separate them and tie them up at different ends of the donkey lot – just like they keep the Mercedes and Toyotas separate in the car parking lots.
Big Foot Tribe
The donkey parking lot is funny.
Judy Haughton-James
Very interesting! We have donkeys in Jamaica but no donkey parking lots as yet.
Rhonda
Thanks Judy. We just spent the year traveling around the world. Morocco was our last stop and one of my favorites. I live in New Zealand and I don’t think there are any working donkeys here.
Ai Sakura
this is so interesting!
Rhonda
Morocco is one of the most interesting places we visited. I really miss it already.
Theresa
I don’t know why, but I find the donkey parking lot funny. It reminds me of the horse buggy parking we have at some of our Walmarts.
Char
A way more environmentally friendly parking lot!
Cheers,
Char
steve
I quite like Donkeys, but I have never seen a parking lot for them before.