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As we travelled through Morocco, we visited a variety of very different Moroccan markets. While most cater to tourists as well as locals, we found the more traditional Moroccan markets to be a window into everyday life. Our favourite was the traditional market in Rissani, an eastern Moroccan city situated at the base of the Sahara Desert, within 50 km of the border with Algeria.

A market in Rissani Morocco
With 675 stalls/shops, the Rissani market seemed endless.

Getting to the Sahara

Earlier, we had travelled by train from Fes to Marrakesh stopping in major cities along the way (Meknes, Rabat, and Casablanca). We found much of the areas in walking distance to the train stations catered to tourists. From Marrakesh, we rented a car and drove west to Essaouira, south along the Atlantic coast. Then, as we drove east to the Sahara desert, things changed, and tradition had a tighter hold.

See our complete itinerary: Morocco Road Trip: Marrakech to the Sahara Desert

If you are apprehensive about self-driving in Morocco, there are plenty of tours available in a variety of price ranges. We prefer private tours, but know group tours are quite popular. For a range of options from companies we trust, check out:

⇒ Click here to see Moroccan desert tour options from Viator 

Arriving at the Rissani Market

As we approached the Sahara, we stopped in Rissani, the largest city near Erg Chebbi, the sand dunes of Merzouga and the largest sand desert in Morocco. Rissani’s traditional market is well known in the region and quite unlike the souqs, medinas, and other Moroccan markets we had visited in the bigger cities.

We could have visited the market on our own but opted to hire a registered guide so we could better understand what we saw. Of course, this meant we would be taken to a friend’s shop where our guide would most likely get a commission on any transaction we made.

A shop in one of the traditional Moroccan markets, this one in Rissani Morocco
Inside the Moroccan shop owned by the friend of our guide. Here we bought a traditional silver teapot. While we probably overpaid a bit by Moroccan standards, we were happy to walk away with a piece made with such expert craftsmanship.

Donkey Parking Lot

Our guide at a market in Rissani Morocco
What made our guide so valuable to us was the details that he provided. In the photo, he is standing in front of the donkey parking lot, better seen in the next image.
A donkey parking lot in Rissani
This is the donkey parking lot. It’s where the people who travel to the market via donkey leave their animal tied up while they do their shopping.
Bicycles at a market in Rissani Morocco
We are noticed many people on bicycles. We were not surprised when we saw this “parking” area.

Moroccan Markets: Animals For Sale

A livestock market (cattle, goats, sheep, but no camels as they are only sold in the desert) was completely new to us, and we probably stood and stared just a bit longer than we should have. We were taken here first, as it both opens and closes earlier than the main Moroccan market. Our guide worried that we wouldn’t see very many animals. And in fact, he told us the best had been picked and sold before we arrived.

An animal market in Rissani Morocco
Our girls looked on as a potential buyer inspected the animal.
Goat for sale
For sale, this little goat is tied in place at the animal market.
Animals for sale
Prices are not set but rather negotiated. Even without speaking the language, we could understand what was going on. Only the men participate in the negotiation.
Cows and calves for sale
Cows and calves are also for sale.

Moroccan Spices and Other Foods

Of all the Moroccan markets we encountered in the country the spice market is always my favourite. There is something alluring about the stacks of colourful powders, herbs, leaves, roots, and there is always at least one special Moroccan spice mix.

Other food for sale in the market that we noticed included fruit, vegetables, meat (including animal heads), chickens and rabbits (still alive), fish, herbs and dates.  There were also cafes and small family run restaurants.

A spice market in Rissani Morocco
Colourful and fragrant, the Moroccan spice market is always a highlight.

Moroccan Products and Other Goods

Aside from food and animals, there was a huge variety of items for sale. We saw few rugs shops like the one we visited, but we did see plenty of clothing (some commercially made, others sewn on the spot), utensils for kitchen or shaving, cosmetics, Moroccan jewelry, copper pots, tools, shoes, and traditional clothing. The Rissani market also has areas for carpentry and other commercial activities.

A market in Rissani Morocco
There is an area of the market dedicated to craftsmanship.
Shoe sole made from an old recycle tire.
Our guide pointed out that the sole of this pair of shoes is made from an old tire. In fact, everything in this area is made from recycled goods. Without our guide, we would have missed it, or at least dismissed it as junk.

Practical Information on Visiting the Risanni Market

  • The Risanni market is open all day on Tuesday, Thursday, and Sunday, although the animal auctions and sales tend to happen early in the day.
  • This is one of the traditional Moroccan markets that also attracts overseas travellers.
  • Even before we had parked our car, several potential guides had targeted us. We chose one who spoke excellent English and had an official licence hanging around his neck. He turned out to be a perfect choice.
  • A guide is not required, but we were glad to have had one.
  • According to Wikitravel, the best souvenir to bring home from Rissani is “a plate made from palm tree paper by women in old ksour.”
  • If you don’t have a car, you can get to Risanni via CTM bus, with one bus per day from Marrakech and two from Fes.
 

A Second Traditional Moroccan Market

As we continued driving, we turned off the main road and came upon another Moroccan market. This one was only for produce.

Tradition Moroccan market in eastern Morocco near Rissani
As we approached, this Moroccan market looked like nothing more than a gathering of people on the streets.
Food stalls at a tradition Moroccan market in eastern Morocco
Some of the food was displayed on stands.
Vegetables at a Tradition Moroccan market in eastern Morocco near Rissani
Many of the farmers laid blankets on the ground for their produce.
Tradition Moroccan market in eastern Morocco near Rissani
It was a busy market, and I believe we were the only non-locals in the area

Touring the Region

  • We toured Morocco on our own, hiring guides on the spot at destinations. For the most part, this worked out great for us. If you prefer to have a plan, and/or take a desert tour, be sure to check out Viator, a TripAdvisor company:

⇒ Click here to see Moroccan desert tour options from Viator 

  • If you are more of an intrepid traveller, we recently discovered the world’s largest small group travel company, aptly named, Intrepid. The Best of Morocco trip covers the same places we visited on our own, but without the DIY hassle.

⇒ Click here to see the Best of Morocco Tour with Intrepid 

Where to Stay in the Sahara

We stayed just outside Merzouga, at Kasbah Azalay. The proprietor and other staff members are warm, welcoming and helpful. They offered Sahara tours to interesting spots, dune bashing, sand skiing, and other options like overnight desert excursions. The food was outstanding, the toilets western, and the rooms comfortable and secure. It’s where I will stay if I am every lucky enough to return to this part of the world.

⇒ Click here to check availability at Kasbah Azalay Merzouga 

Of, if you prefer, there are four hotel options in Rissani and over 150 options in Merzouga.

⇒ Click here to check availability of hotels in Rissani or Click here to check availability of hotels in Merzouga

Please Share

If you enjoyed discovering Moroccan Markets with me, please share this article on social media:
Fragrant and colourful, spices are one of my favouirte things at a traditional Moroccan Market. You would be surprised by some of the other things we discovered. Risanni Morocco You might be surprised by some of the things we discovered at the tradition style Moroccan market in Rissani Morocco.

 

Do you prefer tourist or traditional Moroccan markets?

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Comments

  1. I love markets too, and it’s a shame we missed seeing this one when we were in Morocco. Risanni looks so vibrant, and the colours are eye-popping too! I don’t blame you for liking the spice markets, they have such interesting smells!

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  2. I have come to terms with know the guide is going to take me to his friends shop so he can make a commission. It’s part of life. What I don’t like, is when they get really pushy on selling me something.

    I love spice markets. I tend to go crazy and buy way more spices that one could ever use. Bring on the cinnamon.

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  3. David and I are currently in discussions about Morocco. I want to go. He only wants to go if I will agree to us hiring a car when we get there. What do you think – is it safe to drive ourselves? I know what you mean about being the only non-locals. Today D and I went to a market in a little town in Mexico. As the only foreigners there we felt like we were the tourist attraction.

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  4. You are so right about local markets being the window into a culture! Love that you rented a car and got away from the touristy versions. Morocco can be a little intimidating but your tips broke it down and made it feel more approachable. We’d really like to go to Morocco. I lived in southern Spain and still kick myself for not going!

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  5. I feel like I would need several days just to explore all these markets! A great insight into local life and the hard working people who live there. I would love to see the spice market too – I think that would no doubt be my favourite! But also awesome to see people like blacksmiths hard at work with their traditional methods. I think a guide would be very helpful as I imagine it would get quite overwhelming.

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  6. This is such a dream for me! I absolutely love visiting the local markets when I travel. This market reminds me of the bazaars I visited in Istanbul. I just love all the spices and trinkets! I could easily explore for hours on end!

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  7. I have a feeling that if you return to this market in Rissani after 5, 10 or more years, nothing much will change. That parking lot for donkeys will still be there. Time seemed to stand still and the place was very much detached from the amenities of the modern world. It has maintained its innocence and for the locals the traditional way of going through with their daily business.

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  8. What a great and insightful post – Morocco is still on my list and seeing your pictures is again a reminder that I need to go there soon! I would definitely enjoy the spice market and drive around like you did. But the animal market, oh no, poor little goats :-/ But this seems to be part of it and perhaps I would go there too… The donkey parking lot is really so funny, I had to laugh out loud!

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  9. I would love to take a self drive vacation in Morocco like you did. And I would love to include a stop to experience Rissani’s traditional market . Clever to have organized a guide for the market – definitely sounds like it’s a great choice for more context as you make your way through, especially as this is a cultural experience 🙂 I’ve dreamed of visiting the spice markets in Morocco. The donkey parking lot is too funny!!

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  10. I’d love to visit a traditional Moroccan market one day! I’d be a bit concerned about it, to be honest, as I don’t feel comfortable with people trying to sell you things you don’t want to have but I think having a local guide is an awesome idea to prevent any miscommunication!

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  11. I am sure Morocco is every travelers’ interest. The local life there is so different, I would very much like to experience it. The market scene is so interesting. And for the first time I saw a donkey parking lot.

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  12. I have never heard of this city before but the market is pretty cool. I am a big fan of markets and the more authentic the better. I think I will go crazy in Morocco with all the markets. I love countries where every city has a major market (or more than one).

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  13. So interesting. I love finding local markets. There was a Spice Market when we lived in Martinique that I really enjoyed. It was full of local spices, handmade bags and of course, trinkets. My husband used to live in Morocco, in Agadir, and told us all about the markets. He even brought us back some great gifts from his dealings. He loved bartering with them.

    Reply

  14. You and your family are so intrepid. I remember markets that startled me in North Sulawesi – dogs for sale, chicken heads also, and we had to watch where we stepped. Still I wouldn’t have missed it for anything. Markets are great for getting a local feel.

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  15. I used to live in Amish country in Ohio and our supermarket had two hitching posts for the horse and buggies – which was quite unusual here but…oh, how I love that donkey parking lot. I’ve never seen anything like it. And of course, all your other photos, too. Looks like a great visit.

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  17. I’ve not been to Morocco but these look gorgeous. And I love that you mention they’re not to stereotypical tourist markets. It’s usually obvious if there aren’t a lot of other foreigners around.

    And I LOVE the donkey parking lot! #teamlovinlife

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  18. Hi Rhonda – I found your blog from the Loving Life link. I enjoyed reading your post and the lovely photos as ‘m planning to visit Morocco later this year.

    Reply

  23. I felt kind of sorry for the animals tethered to that line. I know you don’t want them to get away, but still. I chuckled at the donkey park. Okay, they are tethered there too. My favorite is all the spices. So very colorful.

    Have a fabulous day, Rhonda. ♥

    Reply

  27. We used to have a donkey cart that picked up the garbage in Nanjing. It could carry so much. Are these donkeys for taxi carts or work carts?

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    • LOL – these are working donkeys. It was market day. There was also an animal market, but these were the donkeys that belonged to the vendors or shoppers. They are not for sale.

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  30. This is an awesome collection of pictures! I have never even considered anything like this before, it’s good to see other parts of the world!

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    • I guess they would separate them and tie them up at different ends of the donkey lot – just like they keep the Mercedes and Toyotas separate in the car parking lots.

      Reply

    • Thanks Judy. We just spent the year traveling around the world. Morocco was our last stop and one of my favorites. I live in New Zealand and I don’t think there are any working donkeys here.

      Reply

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