Being based in the old medina, we found plenty of things to do in Fes. A labyrinth of narrow streets and dead ends, it’s like nowhere else. The former capital of modern Morocco, Fes is the country’s second-largest city. The main draw is the old walled Fes Medina, a place to wander, to get lost, and to discover. As one of the world’s largest pedestrian zones, the Fes medina is one of those places that people either love or hate. It’s an overload of colours, patterns, sounds, and unknown aromas. To be honest, Fes is somewhere we liked so much, we went back for a second visit.
Let me take you on a photo exploration of the 1300-year-old Fes Medina, a UNESCO world heritage site.
Bab Boujeloud, the French-made Blue Gate, is the largest and most famous entrance to the Fes Medina. The cars in the photo indicate that I am standing outside the medina. The other side of the gate is green.
The aroma of barbeque lured us to this street vendor on one of the narrow streets of the old medina.
More often than not we saw foods for sale that we couldn’t identify. This is smen, a salted and fermented butter.
My best advice is to look up. Some of the intricate carvings are incredible.
The Souk of the Carpenters is a cultural exploration filled with fascinating and talented artisans, whose skills have been passed down through the ages.
We are not sure what this crowd of men was doing, but we think it was a storyteller like we saw in Marrakesh.
When they say fresh chicken for dinner, they are not kidding.
One of the more interesting places we visited was Chouara Tannery. It is best seen from above, as at ground level the stench is overwhelming. If you hold a mint leaf under your nose, it will help dissipate the smell.
A closer look at this Fes tannery, and we can see the skill that has been passed down since the 11th century. Here, the leather processing techniques are unchanged for a thousand years and utilise pigeon droppings, limestone, and other natural materials.
This dead end is the alleyway that leads to where we were staying. Like many old homes here, Riad al Atik is magnificent inside despite the plain exterior.
One of the women who works at the riad also does wedding henna. Our girls were very lucky to have her do theirs.
There are plenty of shopping opportunities in the medina. Remember to barter for the price. It’s a way of life, not an insult to your craftsman.
We quickly got used to sharing our walking space with the working animals in the medina.
Every evening at dusk 100s of birds took flight from this section of the medina.
Wandering the maze of alleyways, we found this building being held up by its neighbour.
A new friend invited into this home for a cup of mint tea. It wasn’t until after a month in Morocco that we learned there is up to six teaspoons of sugar in a cup of mint tea – no wonder it was so good!
Medersa al-Attarine is nearly 1000 years old and open to non-Muslims.
More Things to Do in Fes Medina:
- Admire the Andalusia Mosque, the Karaouine Mosque, and the entrance to the tomb of Moulay Idris. While stunning in their own right, each of these is open only to Muslims.
- Visit the Palace Nejjarine, its beautiful fountain, and the Nejjarine Museum of Wood.
- Take a local’s hammam bath. We opted to do this rather than the tourist hammam, and it was quite the experience.
- Inside the Fes medina, our favourite place to eat is Chez Rashid’s. Learn from our mistake, if their metal shutters are down, the restaurant is not open, regardless of what a server tells you. I am not sure who served us our dinner that night, but it wasn’t up to standard.
- Also in the medina is the University of Al Quaraouiyine. Founded in 859AD, it is the oldest continuously functioning university in the world.
- We were lucky enough to arrive for the huge Moussem Moulay Idriss festival.
A few things to do in Fes outside of the medina:
The Royal Palace Fes. There is a palace in each of the Imperial cities.
Jardin Jnan Sbil is a quiet and peaceful retreat, an escape from the chaos, crowds, and vendors that fill the old medina.
Outside the medina, we saw this man carrying empty water bottles.
A rooftop lunch offered us this view of the city.
More Things to Do in Fes Outside the Medina:
- Visit the district of the potters, Ain Nokbi.
- Take a walk through the narrow streets of the Mellah, the old Jewish Quarter.
- Stroll through the 14th-century Merenid Tombs (we didn’t go here).
More Tips and Practical Information:
- Many visitors get lost in the old medina. Before you hire a guide to find the exit, try walking uphill. Most of the medina alleyways head downhill to the centre.
- Take caution when drinking water. Always ask if it is safe for you to drink (the Moroccan’s grew up on it, and they can drink it without a problem). Also, if you buy bottled water, be sure you receive unopened bottles, rather than refilled.
- Carry toilet paper with you.
- If you are outside of the medina, ask at your hotel or Riad how much the taxi should cost and don’t pay more – negotiate before you get in.
- If you prefer a tour, Viator offers several affordable options.
- We stayed at Riad Al Atik in the old medina both time we visited Fes. The attention to every detail, exotic and delicious food (be sure to try the homemade ice cream), and a friendly atmosphere make this traditional riad the ideal lace to stay on any visit to Fes.
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Have you been to Fes? Does the contrast between the old Fes Medina, and the new sections surprise you?
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