An impromptu Scotland road trip presented fascinating nature, fairytale castles, stunning scenery, and even a bit of Harry Potter magic. Our initial plan took us only to Edinburgh. However, Scotland captivated us and we had to see more. With blue skies and unseasonably delightful 24c (75f) degree temperatures in May, we were lucky.
Rather than taking direct routes, we often travelled along scenic routes. We opted away from the popular North Coast 500 itinerary. Here is our route from Edinburgh to Cairnryan, where we boarded the vehicle ferry to Northern Ireland.
Scotland Road Trip: Edinburgh to Inverness
The first leg of our adventure was Edinburgh to Inverness, where we based ourselves for two nights.
Beatrix Potter Garden
The enchanted Beatrix Potter Gardens in the town of Birnam was more than just a place to stretch our legs. Here, we found Peter Rabbit alongside many of the 19th-century author’s other characters. Fans of Beatrix Potter books, our girls were mesmerized by the fun.
Pitlochry
Standing creekside, we watched an occasional salmon leap up from the water, seemingly taunting the nearby fly fisherman. The crystal clear water was complemented by the surrounding lush green fields and deep blue sky. It’s easy to see why Pitlochry is such a popular holiday destination.
After our picnic lunch, we headed to the Pitlochry fish ladders. These are a series of 34 pools with stepped-up water tunnels (ladders). They aid 5000+ salmon annually to cross the Pitlochry Dam and continue upstream to their spawning area. Lookout windows allow us to watch the fish as they enter the tunnels. A new Dam Visitor Centre opened in 2017.
Blair Castle
Just six kilometres beyond Pitlochry is the fairytale-like Blair Castle, home to the prior Dukes and Earls of Atholl; although, the current Duke lives in South Africa. Photos were only allowed in the ballroom, where there is a giant dress-up bin for kids of all ages, along with what felt like hundreds of deer skulls on the walls.
Scotland Road Trip: Inverness
Based in Inverness, we were centrally located. While it was easy to travel to north Scotland or out to Loch Ness, in truth, we wished for more time to spend in this laid-back cosmopolitan city laced with history.
Inverness
As the summer solstice approaches, the long days kept it light well into the night. And the unseasonably warm weather extended into the evening, giving us what felt like extra time here. One night we stumbled upon a graveyard tour, while another night we headed to a popular Irish pub called Hootananny featuring live music.
Scotland Road Trip: Inverness north to Dunrobin Castle and the Falls of Shin
As we headed even farther north, the magic of the Scottish highlands continued to captivate us.
Dunrobin Castle
Dunrobin Castle is one of the most northerly of the great houses in Scotland. It’s a stately 189 room home in Sutherland, in the Highland area of Scotland, and the family seat of the Earls and Dukes of Sutherland and the Clan Sutherland.
There is also a museum featuring taxidermy animals shot by Dukes and Duchesses who once lived in the castle and included a giraffe, elephant, and many other animals. It also houses a collection of archaeological relics. Dunrobin Castle is open seasonally from April through October.
The gardens are a masterpiece on their own, created in the style of Versailles by the same architect who designed the Houses of Parliament. Dunrobin Castle has a daily falconry demonstration out in the garden, featuring golden eagles and peregrine falcons. Falconry is the ancient art of hunting with birds of prey.
Falls of Shin
After the castle, we headed west to the Falls of Shin where the salmon leap up the waterfall for spawning. We only saw a few salmon jump, and missed it on film. On the bright side, we found this video showing it clearly.
Falls of Shin is a bit off the beaten path (near the villages of Bonar Bridge and Lairg), but if it is May to October and a warm day, it is worth the effort.
Scotland Road Trip: Inverness south to Cairnryan
The final leg of our impromptu adventure brought us from Inverness to Cairnryan, where we boarded a ferry to Northern Ireland.
Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle
We couldn’t go to Scotland without cruising on Loch Ness. “Loch” is Scottish for “lake” or “sea inlet.” Loch Ness is the largest body of freshwater in Britain and known worldwide as home to Nessie, the legendary Loch Ness monster. (You can check the latest sightings here).
After a brief search for Nessie, we headed towards the 13th to 16th-century ruins of Urquhart Castle that sit along the shores of Loch Ness. Self-guided touring of the castle ruins is an optional add on.
Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle cruises are very popular. Once you know when you will be in the region, book your tickets in advance.
⇒ Click here for pricing or tickets: Loch Ness cruise only (1-Hour).
⇒ Or, Click here for pricing or tickets: Loch Ness cruise and Urquhart Castle (2-hours).
*Both cruise options are with award-winning Jacobite, who has been taking passengers on Loch Ness since 1973. It is the same cruise, making an optional stop at the castle. We took the first option of the cruise only.
Fort Augustus Locks
We also stopped at Fort Augustus to see the staircase of five locks, which bring the boats up and downstream. They are part of the 29 locks along the Caledonian Canal, which runs 60 miles from the northeast to the southwest. The grassy area along the banks of the locks in this charming Scottish town offered another perfect picnic spot.
Fort William (Hogwarts Express stop)
The “Hogwarts Express” is an extremely popular Scottish Highlands tourist attraction. The train runs from Fort William to the north and back, but not on Sunday. Therefore, our attempt to meet the train as it returned to Fort William Station at 4 pm failed. Instead, we were given directions to the train yard where the Hogwarts Express spends its day off.
TIP: Reservations for Hogwarts Express often book up more than a month in advance. Therefore, we recommend buying your ticket as soon as you know your dates. Get tickets and transport from Edinburgh for either a one or two day adventure:
One long 13 hour day – This tour passes and points out key film locations from all 8 Harry Potter movies as it makes its way to Fort William. Here, you will board the Hogwarts Express for a one-way journey. The return is via coach. ⇒ Check pricing and reviews: 13-hour Magical Highlands tour with Hogwarts Express.
Or make it a two-day adventure – This tour spends two days in the Scottish Highlands. You will spend the night at a B&B in Fort Augustus and take the Hogwarts Express on day two. ⇒ Check pricing and reviews: Jacobite Experience: 2-Day tour with Hogwarts Express.
Inverlochy Castle
Another castle ruins to explore, this one close to Fort William. Inverlochy Castle was built in 1280 and survived the Wars of Independence (1296 to 1357).
Cairnryan
We left Scotland on the car ferry to Belfast. Having rented a car in England, we took it onto the ferry with us, and then again when we came back to England. While it was easy, it would have been more economical to rent different cars on each island. (If we had done that, we would have returned to Edinburgh from Fort William, rather than heading to Cairnryan.)
TIP: Either way, we rent our cars from RentalCars.com when we travel. As a conglomerator, they make it easy to rent the car we want at the best price. ⇒ Check price and availability of RentalCars.com
Take a Scottish Highlands tour from Edinburgh
Short on time, or don’t want to be driving in Scotland? Check out this one day tour from Edinburgh that will show you some spectacular Scotland scenery. It includes stops in several small villages, highland cows, Glencoe, and a cruise on Loch Ness with a stop at Urquhart Castle.
⇒ Check pricing and reviews of this one day Loch Ness, Glencoe, & the Highlands tour from Edinburgh.
Where to stay in Inverness
Inverness is the ideal place to stay for this Scotland road trip itinerary. Our first day was an Edinburgh to Inverness road trip, while our second day did the loop north, returning to Inverness. If you are looking for a place to stay, we recommend:
• Best Western Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa – Located across the river from the Inverness Castle along the River Ness, it’s only a 5-minute walk to Inverness central city. This three-star option is rated “fabulous” by former guests. Pet-friendly, the hotel offers an indoor pool, restaurant, bar, parking, spa, and wellness centre.
⇒ Check pricing and reviews for Best Western Inverness Palace Hotel & Spa.
• B&B 53 Bed & Breakfast – Rated superb by guests, this charming bed and breakfast is more intimate than the Palace hotel. It is the friendly staff that seems to be mentioned most often in the positive reviews, although the delicious breakfast is also mentioned frequently. Note: it is adults only.
⇒ Check pricing and reviews for B&B 53 Bed & Breakfast.
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Don’t miss these travel tips for visiting Ireland or the UK.
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Lara Dunning
June 9, 2019 at 6:54 pmThis is such a great trip, very well-rounded with activities and sights (Hello, Hogwarts Express!). We haven’t been to Scottland and so want to go!
Tania Muthusamy
June 6, 2019 at 11:27 pmI so love all the castles, particulary Dunrobin with the Versailles style gardens. Not sure about the taxidermy animals though.
Ketki
June 6, 2019 at 7:25 pmWhat an ultimate Scotland road trip! The church overlooking River Ness looks beautiful so does the Dunrobin Castle. There is so much to and see and I’m so glad the entire family had fun. Can’t wait to get to Scotland sometime 🙂
The Holidaymaker
June 6, 2019 at 12:33 pmI love your tradition of taking the perceived long route, as I agree, it becomes part of the adventure too; you never know what you will come across. When I now think of Scotland and Inverness, Outlander comes to mind. It would be interesting to visit some of those castles, where they are in ruins or maintained. Thanks for sharing your route and the stops along the way. It sounds like an ideal road trip.
Candy
June 6, 2019 at 2:30 amI would love to do a road trip around Scotland. I like that you took the less popular route and even extended your trip. You’re so lucky you had perfect weather and good to know that the days are longer. It would be so exciting for me to see the Urquhart Castle. I recently visited the Tower of London and it was so much fun roaming around an old castle (mins the sprial stairs). I’d definitely add on the self-guided tour 🙂
Helen
June 5, 2019 at 5:21 pmOkay I’m sold – between the fish ladder, that amazing white castle and the chance to see Nessie you’ve convinced me to finally visit Scotland (I only lived in England for 25 years and didn’t actual manage to get there!). You got super lucky with those temperatures – what month did you go? I hear the midges are quiet fierce up there in summer.
Rhonda Albom
June 6, 2019 at 8:23 amIt was May (not this year), so before the bugs. And, yes, we did get pretty lucky.
Cindy
June 5, 2019 at 3:38 pmI would love to go to the Scottish Highlands and you’ve pointed out some places that are new to me. I wouldn’t be able to resist Beatrix Potter Garden and the Hogwarts Express, even though I don’t have kids. I love those gardens at Dunrobin Castle and Inverness definitely looks like a place to spend a couple of days or more.
Photo Cache
June 5, 2019 at 7:48 amThank you for this virtual trip.
Kelly Anne Rothaermel
June 4, 2019 at 3:21 pmIt looks like a fantastic trip. would love to hang out in Northern Scotland for a while.
Fun 60
June 4, 2019 at 9:26 amReally useful post. Thanks for sharing your trip details.
Lydia C. Lee
June 4, 2019 at 8:56 amWhat great photos. Looks like a fab place!
image-in-ing: weekly photo linkup
June 4, 2019 at 8:36 amLovely photos!
Thanks for sharing your journey with us at https://image-in-ing.blogspot.com/2019/06/pop-art-i-dont-get-it.html
Carol Colborn
June 4, 2019 at 8:14 amWe were lucky to have done half of this, having visited Inverness, Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. My daughter was married in Guthrie Castle in July 2014 and she and husband Cling took all of us on a bus tour of the three!
Antonio Maisto
June 3, 2019 at 9:18 pmScotland is an amazing land, sometimes even underrated travel destination. Will be great if others invest in tourism to get to know other places over the big cities and famous landmarks.
MY RIG Adventures
June 3, 2019 at 3:33 pmIt’s been a lifelong bucket list item of mine to get to Scotland and go for a road trip. In particular I want to check out loads of castles! Your itinerary is great, thanks for all of the info. That ballroom of deer heads kinda freaks me out though.
Tony Payne
June 4, 2012 at 8:30 pmSounds like you had a great time. The Beatrix Potter Garden looked fun, and I would have liked to see the fish ladder, heard about Pitlochry many moons ago at school. There was a fish ladder (on a smaller scale) on the St. Joseph River in South Bend, I saw the salmon leaping up there a couple of times, it’s fascinating.
lisaauch
June 3, 2012 at 11:32 amWhat fun you had on your travels in the highlands!
Bea
June 3, 2012 at 6:31 amAmazing! I bet you’ve enjoyed this nice trip a lot! I really like your photos, you must have had such a great time there! I’ve never been to Scotland but I’ve seen some beautiful and breathtaking shots from that wonderful country.
Janis
June 3, 2012 at 3:13 amGlad you got to Pitlochry, my Great Great Grandfather was called Chief when he lived in that village. My Great Aunt still lived in the family home until she died at 102. She and I walked up to the Salmon run as well many years ago.
stevebethere
June 2, 2012 at 7:54 pmHahaha! loved the photos loved the dressing up pics and the castle 🙂
Joyce
June 2, 2012 at 2:19 pmWhat a wonderful experience!
Lynne
June 2, 2012 at 12:07 pmgirls and frocks… always a recipe for fun. Or mayhem. Or both