As the Northern Royal Albatross spreads its massive wings, I thought this day couldn’t get any better. Then, our second Royal Albatross Centre tour brought us to a beach that is now a Little Blue Penguin habitat. Here, we witnessed 95 fairy penguins return from the sea, waddle across the sand, and climb the rocks just metres from where we stood.
Northern Royal Albatross in flight with the Taiaroa Head Lighthouse in the background.
Photo Credit: Chris McCormack. Used with permission.
Little Blue Penguins on Pilots Beach.
Photo Credit: Stephen Jaquiery. Used with permission.
The evening’s magic is burned into my brain. The birds are extraordinary; one the world’s largest flying species, the other the world’s smallest penguin. As a photographer, it was a bit of a miss, one of my first fails. Excitement, fog, tinted observation area glass (albatross), and shadows (penguins) create a less than ideal photography shoot. Yet, our time at the Royal Albatross Centre was a highlight of our recent visit to Dunedin.
We can’t control nature, and fog rolled in while we watched the Royal Albatross.
It began with a picturesque drive to Taiaroa Head at the end of the Otago Peninsula. Here, the albatross have created a home, and the Royal Albatross Centre offers tours. We opted to do it all. First, we joined one of the albatross tours, then we explored Fort Taiaroa, next, we enjoyed dinner at the cafe, and finally, we watched a breeding colony of penguins return to their habitat.
Albatross Colony Dunedin
Taiaroa Head is home to the only mainland breeding colony of the Northern Royal Albatross. They mate for life, returning here once every two years to breed. They produce one chick per breeding cycle and they sit on that egg for 79 days before it hatches.
Albatross is the world’s largest flying species, and the Northern Royal Albatross is the third largest of the breed, weighing in at up to 9kg. Their massive wingspan expands up to three metres. Graceful to witness, they glide, rarely flapping their wings. Once a chick has fledged, it will take 10 days to fly from New Zealand to South America at speeds up to 120 kph, returning to Taiaroa Head as a teen to find a mate.
Photo Credit: Leon Chu. Used with permission.
Royal Albatross with egg.
Photo Credit: Royal Albatross Centre. Used with permission.
Fort Taiaroa and the Armstrong Disappearing Gun
The historic Fort Taiaroa is one of New Zealand’s earliest settlements. A Maori camp in the 1300s, it later became a fortified Pa and was one of many sites where the Treaty of Waitangi was signed in 1840.
Like many peninsulas in New Zealand, Taiaroa Head was used for defence, first by the Maori, and then later by New Zealand. Similar to North Head in Devonport, Fort Taiaroa was built underground and into the hill during the 1880s for fear of Russian invasion. Both sites use a system of tunnels and the famous New Zealand Armstrong disappearing gun.
The Armstrong disappearing gun with its hand-driven pump in the foreground.
An underground tunnel in Fort Taiaroa.
Photo Credit: Royal Albatross Centre. Used with permission.
Dinner at the Albatross Cafe
We took the last albatross tour of the day. This left us with enough time to enjoy dinner before the penguin tour started at dusk. The floor to ceiling atrium style windows makes the Albatross Cafe a pleasant place to enjoy a meal or a coffee.
My delicious chicken and kumara pie came with a salad and chips.
Breeding Colony of Penguins
Standing on the platform overlooking Pilots Beach, we watched for movement in the water. Each evening at dusk, the Little Blue Penguins come home in groups, called rafts. Easy to spot, from the first glance you could feel the excitement. The Royal Albatross Centre has installed lights, allowing us to see it all without disturbing the birds. The natural atmosphere enhances the magic. The gentle breeze carries the fresh aroma of the ocean mixed with wafts of damp penguin. Their tiny bodies waddle up the beach, scamper over the rocks, and disappear into burrows. The loud squawking vocalization of the penguins is the only thing that interrupts our thoughts.
We saw 95 Little Blues that night. They are part of a breeding colony of penguins that mate for life and return to the same spot on Pilots Beach daily. At only 25 cm tall, their camouflage protects these flightless birds from penguin predators. Their blue backs look like the ocean to flying birds from above, while their white bellies appear like a glow from the sun to penguin predators lurking under the sea.
The raft of penguins approach the rocks. The birds at the water’s edge are seagulls.
Climbing the hill to their burrow.
Practical Information on Visiting the Royal Albatross Centre
- The New Zealand Department of Conservation manages the albatross colony as a nature reserve, while the Royal Albatross Centre is operated by the Otago Peninsula Trust. Both organizations focus on preservation and education.
- As there is no public or self-guided access into the nature reserve or beach, penguin and albatross tours are the only way to see this breeding area. Tour fees help pay for conservation work.
- The Royal Albatross Centre offers a variety of tour options, each including one or a combination of the albatross, Fort Taiaroa, and penguins. They also offer a tour option with transportation from Dunedin. See the Royal Albatross Centre tour options on their official website.
- Daily penguin or albatross tours should be booked in advance, as they often fill up.
- The Albatross Cafe closes one hour before dusk. If you want to do what we did, order your meal before the albatross tour.
- Here is a Royalcam live stream:
Where to Stay in Dunedin
If you are planning to view the penguins at night, you will need a place to stay. There are a few options on the Otago Peninsula, or you may want to take the 45-minute drive back to Dunedin. We stayed at the Distinction Hotel.
| Hotel | Features | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Distinction Dunedin Hotel | The Distinction made us feel special Luxuriously comfortable beds Beautiful views A huge gym on the third floor | View |
| Larnach Lodge and Stable Stay | Stay in and enjoy dinner at New Zealand's only castle Clean and comfortable rooms Regal gardens and the castle will make you glad you chose to stay here | View |
| The Victoria Hotel | Traditional style hotel rooms in a great location | View |
| Dunedin Central Hostel | Backpacker accommodation with dorm rooms and a shared kitchen Close to The Octagon and its nightlife | View |
General Information
- Otago Peninsula’s nickname is the Wildlife Capital of New Zealand.
- Little Blue Penguins live in many places in the southern hemisphere. We have seen them on TiriTiri Matangi Island in Auckland and in St. Kilda in Melbourne (Australia).
- If you prefer tours to doing it yourself, and you want to see other Dunedin penguins, sea lions, seals, and other wildlife, another option is one of the Wildlife tours from Viator that include the Royal Albatross Centre, plus more.
⇒ Check prices and availability of Dunedin Wildlife Tours
Will you see it all at the Royal Albatross Centre?
Disclaimer: The Royal Albatross Centre hosted our visit. However, the opinions expressed here are strictly my own.
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Pat says
I love learning more about interesting places in New Zealand. I’d love to see the albatross and penguins in the wild.
Alissa Apel says
I like the Royal Albatross with egg. That’s such a great visual. What a cool place to visit. My oldest always had a interest in penguins.
Indah Nuria Savitri says
Those penguins are supeeer cute! I remember seeing similar ones in Melbourne 🙂
Nisha says
Albatross in flight photos are spectacular! I am sure it must have been a special moment to see the bird with largest wingspan soaring by. I quite enjoyed reading about the cute little penguins too.
Judee@gluten free A-Z Blog says
This post was absolutely fascinating and the photos exquisite! I love the photo of the albatross with the egg and the little penguins. Looks like quite an adventure
Bill says
That looked a great place to visit to see all those birds. Like the look of the food that does look tasty
Punita Malhotra says
Animal / bird photography is an art, and you seem to have a hang of it 🙂 Close up shots of the albatross are wonderful, specially with the lighthouse in the background. The first time I saw penguins in New Zealand, I fell for their cuteness. I can imagine myself having the time of my life in this penguin colony.
Rhonda Albom says
I only wish I had taken those close up shots. The weather just didn’t cooperate with us.
Megan Jerrard says
Fairy penguins are my favorite! One of those creatures you could visit time and time again but never get enough of! The whole day sounds great, what an awesome way to do it, with an albatross tour and Fort Taiaroa before the Penguins. Sad photography wise that the weather wasn’t great for you – but sometimes I find these moments force us to put the camera down and really experience the moment 🙂
I would love to see it all at the Royal Albatross Center!
Rhonda Albom says
You are so right. I probably enjoyed it more because the weather was so foggy. There comes a point where I can’t get the shot, so I just put down the camera and enjoy.
Nick Wheatley says
That’s pretty cool that you were able to see one of the worlds largest flyers and then right after smallest penguin – all in one spot! I would say you did pretty well from a photography standpoint regardless of fog, excitement, and everything else. I can’t get over the fact that one of these albatrosses can fly from New Zealand to South America in 10 days. That’s just incredible. The wildlife and specifically the birds are just so unique and interesting in New Zealand. I could do without the Weka’s though, they’ll steal anything that isn’t nailed down!
Rhonda Albom says
I wish these were all my photos, but many of them were supplied by the albatross centre. They are credited above to the photographer.
A ShutterBug Explores says
Wonderful post and photos ~ excellent ~ my favorite is the close up of the penguins ~ great shot!
A ShutterBug Explores,
aka (A Creative Harbor)
Marie-OR says
Fascinating post! First, the penguins are wonderful! Second, the bunker and disappearing gun was really interesting! To think that New Zealanders were worried about Russian invasion in the 1880s! Thirdly, I love albatross photos and info because I lived on Midway Island in the Pacific as a child and these albatross’s cousins were everywhere! 🙂 Great photos and wonderful info.
Rhonda Albom says
Remember, New Zealand was a British colony back then.
stevebethere says
Wow spectacular shots Rhonda very clear and all those penguins oh and that food I want some heheh!
I enjoyed the post
Have a penguintastic week 🙂
Lady Fi says
Squeals of delight!
Kirstie says
Wow! That is a LOT of penguins! Nice top view shot for the breeding colony. Albatross Cafe seems interesting! Wish you had photos of the place.
Liliane Fawzy says
This looks really similar to the experience I had at Penguin Island outside of Melbourne. Great pictures!
Rhonda Albom says
We saw Little Blue penguins in St. Kilda last time we were in Melbourne.
Kiyoko says
Loved your photographs, even if it was a bit of a “miss” (I’m sure we all know that feeling). I think it’s interesting that the birds mate for life. I don’t feel like there are too many species that do that. Maybe this is weird, but I think it’s great that birds can find true love, haha. Thanks for the great post. Will definitely have to check out Taiaroa Head.
Kathy Marris says
Aww the little penguins are adorable! It is difficult to get good shots of wildlife, but you have done an amazing job. #TeamLovinLife
Kerri says
Rhonda, your photos i9n this article are just stunning. I found myself just flicking back and forth through them all. I honestly didn’t know that these penguins were the smallest in the world. Just so adorable. I’m not sure that I’ve ever actually seen an albatross in real life either. Would definitely love to visit this place.
Skye Class says
Your photos are so cute. I could have spent all day looking at the birds. I had no idea albatross flew so fast! I just remember learning as a kid that they had a hard time landing. I’m not exactly sure why I didn’t know penguins lived in New Zealand, but I’m glad to know I don’t have to go all the way to Antarctica, not that I don’t want to do that too. Hopefully I can make it down there sometime next year.
Cat says
Ah your post makes me envious! I love penguins so the albatross tour sounds perfect for me! I’ll need to remember to book in advance when I visit New Zealand!
Birgit | Groove Is In The Heart says
I’ve never heard of the Little Blue Penguins – it must have been so special to see them. They are adorable! (We also have a colony of small penguins here in Cape Town, an endangered species called the African penguins, and I love to visit them.) Your albatross pics are fantastic, there is something so majestic about these birds!
California Globetrotter says
Aww they’re so adorable!! Would love to see them in their natural habitat! Thanks for linking up with #TheWeeklyPostcard!
Anu says
Wow, this is an educating post. I wonder how the ALbatross fly with their 9 kgs of weight – probably the long wings help. The little blue Penguins are so endearing.
Rhonda Albom says
I wondered the same thing.
Anda says
I think New Zealand is a paradise for birds, but I agree the birds are hard to photograph. I love penguins but wasn’t aware about Little Blue Penguin. There are so many species… My first toy as a toddler was a penguin. #TheWeeklyPostcard
Paige says
This post came at the perfect time! I’ve been dying to see penguins – any species of penguin – in the wild my whole life, and my husband and I just bought tickets to New Zealand in January. We’re a little nervous because I hear it can be wicked expensive, but we’re going to try it out on a budget! Anyway, got a little distracted by my own excitement 😉 but this place is definitely on my list! How cool that you can see the smallest penguins and largest flying bird species all in one spot! I can’t wait to give it a go!
mark wyld says
Looks like a great place to visit. Our kids love penguins. This place reminds me of Phillip Island near Melbourne in Australia. They have an amazing penguin colony there as well. The pie with chips and salad looks amazingly yummy
Michelle W says
Learned some interesting new things about a bird I didn’t know much about- First, that’s awesome that they mate for life- I love it! I can’t believe they fly from NZ to South America either, that just seems crazy! Also I had no idea that NZ ever was afraid of Russians invading, that’s also crazy to me!! Finally, I LOVE penguins SO MUCH and I am so jealous you got to see so many! How cool!
Lois Alter Mark says
I would love to see these gorgeous birds in person. I love penguins, especially, and they’re just so much fun to watch as they waddle around! What a magical experience you had!
Siddhartha Joshi says
I have somehow have been always so fascinated with Albatross but there is plenty I learnt today! Super impressed with their wing span of 3 meters…that’s massive! You might see this as a fail for you a photographer, but trust me your story brings a lot of joy to readers like us 🙂
melody pittman says
Omg Rhonda! Those little blue penguins are freaking adorable!! Before reading this article, I saw the picture on social media today or yesterday and had been smiling at how cute they were since then. What a fun trip!
Rhonda Albom says
Thanks Melody. They were even cuter to watch live. The photos just don’t do them justice.
Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields says
I think we went to the albatross centre a few years ago. Sadly we didn’t see any albatross – I seem to remember we were there at the wrong time of day – the story of my life. I would love to see one in flight.
Rhonda Albom says
That was the story of my penguin life prior to this trip.
Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe says
We haven’t been to the south island yet but any place that has cute little penguins is a must see. I’ve never heard of kumara pie, sure sounds delicious.
Rhonda Albom says
Kumara is a New Zealand food, it is a Maori sweet potato.
Lydia C. Lee says
Just lovely!! So cute.
Ryan Biddulph says
These majestic albatrosses are stunning to see in person. When I worked at the shipping terminal in New Jersey I saw one. Had to be. So huge, just massive, and it had those distinct eyes. Turns out, these guys get lost sometimes when flying north from South America and may get caught in hurricanes or big storms that pull them into the Northeast USA. Sweet treat to see one in person.
Ryan
Rhonda Albom says
An unexpected albatross must have been a really special site to see.
Ania Travels says
I love seeing Animals in the wild, and these are so cute. I would love to go to NZ one day and get to experience this for myself. Lovely photos!
Rhonda Albom says
Thanks. And I hope you get here someday.
Wednesday Elf says
A few years ago I read about the Little Blue Fairy Penguins and found them fascinating. Since I like to crochet little plush animals and have made several penguins, I decided to add the ‘Blue’ penguin to my collection. He’s so cute. 🙂
The Royal Albatross Centre sounds wonderful. I would love to visit. Meanwhile, I enjoyed your virtual tour.
PS: I had to look up Kumara, as I had no idea what it was… LOL. Sounds (and looks) like a delicious meal you had.
Rhonda Albom says
I have been here so long that certain things, like kumara, become so normal, I forget the rest of the world doesn’t know it is just a sweet potato.
Jill says
This post just made me smile. I had no idea there was such a place – and it definitely looks worth a visit
Rhonda Albom says
Thinking about seeing them makes me smile, every time. The Otago Peninsula is the wildlife capital of New Zealand, and we are a bird nation.
L. Diane Wolfe says
The little penguins are so adorable. I’ve loved penguins ever since the comic Bloom County came out and introduced Opus.
Rhonda Albom says
I don’t know the comic, but like you, I have loved penguins since I was a little girl.
Patrick Weseman says
What a cool place to go. I would love to go there.
Rhonda Albom says
The South Island of New Zealand is so filled with mystery and wonder. It’s just fantastic.
Jas says
So sooo cute!!!!! I can’t imagine what a special experience this must’ve been. Will defs have to check out that tour from Viator!
Rhonda Albom says
It is so special, and it stays with you. I smile everytime I think about those little cuties.
Amy says
What a cool place to check out! Those albatross are such majestic birds and the penguins….well good to see them.
Rhonda Albom says
We hadn’t been to Dunedin in nearly 10 years. It’s a good trip.
Barbara Radisavljevic says
This is one tour I would definitely like to take someday. I know it must have been a highlight for you, since you love the penguins so much. What wonderful pictures! It also gives a new perspective on “The Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner” and what it must be like to have a dead albatross hanging from one’s neck.
Rhonda Albom says
You called that right. It was a complete highlight. I don’t know the Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, but I would not want 9kgs of anything hanging around my neck. And, if it was a different species of albatross, it could have been even larger.
Sandee says
Great shots as always. I will say I got stuck on your dinner. Yummy.
Have a fabulous day. ☺
Rhonda Albom says
Pies are a kiwi staple, and this one with the chicken and kumara is a real winner.
Lara Dunnign says
I so love visiting places where you can see wildlife and have often joined the local birding hikes. New Zealand is on my list and this is another reason to go. I would love to see both of these birds in person.
Rhonda Albom says
I love looking for birds, but I don’t like carrying a huge amount of camera gear. Therefore, I will never be a true bird photographer. But I am happy with what I can do.
Leah says
Love this! The little penguin are so adorable! And the live cam is really cool too!
Rhonda Albom says
Yes, I was pleased to find the cam.
JM says
Great post and photos you shared here. Love those cute birds and i am pretty amazed with the nature of New Zealand.
Rhonda Albom says
I have always been a penguin fan, but that albatross is new for me. Such a majestic creature.
Alex J. Cavanaugh says
Well, you did get some good shots of the penguins.
I didn’t know albatrosses were one of the largest flying bird.
Rhonda Albom says
The albatross is the largest flying bird. There are several albatross species. The Northern Royal is the third largest of those. As for the photos, the best ones are not mine, as we had a foggy night, although considering the conditions, I was pleased with a few of my penguin photos.
Malini says
You’re photos are just darling! I’m not familiar with Kumara, what is it?
Rhonda Albom says
Many of the photos were given to me by the Royal Albatross Centre, as we had a foggy night, not conducive for photos, but still fine for seeing the birds. Kumara is a Maori sweet potato. It is a commonly eaten food in New Zealand, similar to a yam.
Divyakshi says
This looks like a dream! especially the breeding colony of penguins! <3 soooo cute! I can't imagine how awesome it would be to witness 95 fairy penguins return from the sea, waddle across the sand, and climb the rocks! Such a memorable encounter! 🙂 One of the prime reasons NZ is on my list! Thank you for sharing Rhonda!!
Rhonda Albom says
Yes, it was a dream for me. It is the third time we have stood on various beaches waiting for the penguins to come home, and the first time I saw anything like this. The first raft of about 20 would have satisfied my need to see penguins come home. The rest were an incredible bonus.
Suman Doogar says
That’s a very informative post, love all your pictures specially the little blue Penguin ones …
Rhonda Albom says
I was glad there was such a strong informational component to our tours, it made them much more interesting.
Hilary Melton-Butcher says
Hi Rhonda – what amazing photos that you’ve shared … I’d love to see an albatross sometime … and those fairy penguins … while the tour underground gave you a different perspective on life … great to see history – cheers Hilary
Rhonda Albom says
Watching the giant albatross spread its wings and glide across the sky is pretty amazing.
Lisa says
This brings back such great memories. I love NZ and wildlife and combining the two to visit the penguins was amazing. Great photos! Thanks for the trip down memory lane
Rhonda Albom says
I always love seeing penguins. We saw them twice on this past trip – well three times if you count the one in captivity.