Leaving Muscat, we headed inland into the desert towards Nizwa. A well-planned adventure, yet it was full of surprises. The city, a date palm forest oasis in the middle of a desert, is surrounded by natural beauty and steeped in history, tradition, and culture.
Situated on the plains of the Hajar Mountains, this former capital of Oman (sixth and seventh centuries AD) is only a two-hour drive from Muscat.
Referred to as the ‘Pearl of Islam’, Nizwa is currently the country’s second-biggest tourist destination. And it doesn’t take long to know why. The souqs and markets are vibrant and busy, the historic sites are both unique and fascinating, and the mountain backdrop is amazing.
Our busy day included castles, forts, souqs, markets, towns of mud-brick buildings, a watchtower, camels, impressive views, friendly locals, sweet dates, and the Oman Grand Canyon.
We returned to Muscat exhausted but really glad we went.
Note that Nizwa is a conservative town, and our guide recommended we adhere to the general guidelines for respectful clothing in Oman, which for women involve covering of shoulders and knees. Plus, in certain places, he recommended hair coverings.
Top 10 things to do on a Nizwa day trip
- Explore the mountains
- Nizwa Fort and Castle
- Old Nizwa Souq
- If it’s Friday, don’t miss the Nizwa livestock market
- Jabrin Castle
- Bahla Fort
- Misfat Al Abrieyeen
- Al Hamra
- Hoota Cave
- Jebel Shams and Oman Grand Canyon
Where is Nizwa?
Oman is in the Middle East, on the Arabian Sea. It sits to the east of UAE and Saudi Arabia. The current capital is Muscat. Here is the map of our Nizwa day trip:
Nizwa Fort and Castle
Two key and connected landmarks of this former Omani capital are the 9th-century Nizwa Castle and the Fort added during the 1650s.
The fort’s tower remains the largest round tower in Arabia at 45 metres in diameter and 34 metres tall. Standing in the centre of the massive structure, it is easy to understand why this is the most visited national monument in Oman.
But I am not sure photos do it justice. To make it easier to comprehend the size, take a look at the image just above. Notice my daughter standing on the 9th stair to the bottom on the right-hand side.
Although there is clear signage in multiple languages (including English) that explains each room and area’s usage, what made this visit truly special was our guide and the stories he told. He even did things like sit on floor cushions in one room to demonstrate what the sultan would do.
And he showed us plenty of secret security items like the slot you can see in both the second photo (close-up) and the final one (on the ground). This hole/slot is part of the security system. Guards poured boiling date syrup on unsuspecting intruders as they attempted to pass under.
Old Nizwa Souq
More conservative than the Mutrah Souq in Muscat, it was recommended that we covered our shoulders, knees, and hair when we visited.
In addition to a shopping area, it was also a gathering place for men. We saw groups of men sitting, talking, and often laughing amongst themselves. I was asked not to share photographs of these groups.
Nizwa livestock market
Photo credit: Depositphotos
One of the best examples of tradition carried through the ages the Nizwa livestock market auctions off animals every Friday morning. Taking place at the Nizwa souq, it attracts herders and farmers far and wide.
It’s an early and chaotically busy start at 6.30am, especially if you are trying to get here from Muscat for the market. If you are not early, you will miss it. By 9.30am, many locals have already gone home.
Unfortunately, we didn’t plan well and missed the livestock market. On the bright side, we got to attend a livestock market in Rissani, Morocco.
Jabrin Castle
Our next stop was the more ornate Jabrin Castle, constructed in 1675 it served as a summer residence for the sultan.
It is located in the nearby town of Jabrin, also a palm desert.
Bahla Fort
The Bahla fort was built in the 13th and 14th centuries and is the only fort in Oman that has UNESCO World Heritage status.
Finding this location without a tour guide might be a bit more challenging, as it’s not well sign-posted, but it is worth the effort.
Misfat Al Abriyeen
One of my favourite towns on this tour, the locals of Misfat Al Abrieyeen, follow a more traditional lifestyle complimented with some modern conveniences. However, what I found most interesting was the mud-brick homes literally built into the mountain.
In fact, I liked it so much that I wrote a separate article on Misfat Al Abrieyeen.
Al Hamra
Al Hamra sits at the foothills of the Al Hajar Mountains. It’s one of the country’s oldest towns and, like Misfat, features mud-brick houses.
We had an opportunity to climb the watchtower and get an interesting perspective on the town. There are two interesting sites here, in addition to the tower.
- Bait Al Safah, a living museum
Local women will demonstrate home life, including bread-making, coffee grinding, and other daily tasks in what appears to be an old mud house. - Al Hoota Cave
This 2-million-year-old cave is the only cave on the Arabian peninsula that is open to the public. Currently, only a small portion of the cave is accessible, although the cave is approximately 5 kilometres long. There is an underground lake with rare blind fish.
Jebel Shams – Oman Grand Canyon
As the car reached Jebel Shams, Oman’s highest peak, at just over 3km from sea level, we instantly realized that our final stop was equally as captivating as the others.
Along the edge of Jebel Shams, the cliffs drop a thousand metres, exposing dramatic scenery aptly nicknamed the Oman Grand Canyon.
The locals call this place Wadi Ghul. Whatever you call it, it is a masterpiece of nature, yet somehow still relatively unknown.
As you can see from the images, it was a lovely day, yet it was only us and two other cars in the car park.
Getting to Nizwa
Although it is less than 90km from Muscat to Nizwa, the drive takes nearly two hours. The modern main roads are fine, but once in the mountains, the slow-going roads are often steep, narrow, and harrowing.
The main options for getting to Nizwa are to either self-drive, take a tour, or hire a private guide. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.
If you want to rent a car…
A few things to keep in mind:
- The modern highways in Oman are easy to drive on, although be aware that nearly all the signage is in Arabic. For me, the unfamiliar characters make this an even bigger challenge than simply not speaking the language.
- A 4×4 vehicle is strongly recommended if you drive to the Oman Grand Canyon, especially if it has rained. While regular cars can make the trip, they risk damaging the suspensions.
- Safety standards and driving practices are different to what I am comfortable with, and it often makes me nervous to see cows or groups of people standing in a pick-up bed.
- There are often free-roaming camels along the road. (I just found this interesting.)
However, in saying all that, if you want to self-drive, we have successfully used Rentalcars.com in parts of the world where we don’t speak the local language. Using their online system, we select our criteria (size, options, etc.) and are offered a list of cars from various local dealers.
By booking directly through RentalCars, we have never paid more than going directly, and we get excellent English-speaking support as well as additional insurance options. Reserve your rental car in Oman
If you want a guide…
Although we have driven in more than 50 countries around the world, we were glad to have a guide for our Nizwa day trip.
He offered a historical and local perspective that we would have missed. Our day was filled with anecdotes and demonstrations of how things are done. We not only saw the sights, but we gained a cultural understanding we would never have gotten without a guide.
In addition, he spoke both English and the local language, was familiar with the roads, and understood the timing needed to get from one location to the next.
Plus, I am not sure how we would have faired in the flash floods without a guide, but what we encountered was a rare and random freak storm in that part of Oman.
We always start with the guides at Tours by Locals, and for this tour, our top pick is a historical Nizwa and cool Jebel Akhdar tour from Muscat. We chose it based on sites visited and a highly-rated and experienced guide that is both fluent in English and able to customize tours to meet your needs. Plus, he offers the option of an early Friday start to include the livestock market. Reserve your private Nizwa tour
Or take a tour
Should I make a Nizwa day trip or stay overnight?
While this is a fabulous day trip, it was also an intense and exhausting one as we rushed through just about every stop. In retrospect, I wish we had spent the night.
More specifically, in hindsight, I would have made the trip with a Thursday night stay, allowing us to attend the livestock market in Nizwa early Friday morning.
- In Nizwa, we recommend the four-star Golden Tulip Nizwa Hotel or stay in Misfat Al Abrieyeen at either the Misfah Old House or the Al Misfah Hospitality Inn.
- Based in Muscat, we stayed at the Tulip Inn, which offered the comforts we like combined with an elegant mix of modern and classic elements of Omani culture. Centrally located, Tulip Inn was clean and colourful, with friendly and helpful staff. We recommend it as a mid-range option in Muscat. Reserve your room at Tulip Inn here.
- However, if it’s pure luxury you seek, check out the stunning Muscat Shangri-La Resort. Located at the water’s edge, it is where I will stay if I ever get back to Muscat. Reserve your room at Shangri-La Resort here.
Final thoughts and tips for your Nizwa day trip
- Nizwa was named the Capital of Islamic Culture in 2015 in the Arab region.
- Our entry to this Middle Eastern country was a bit more dramatic than we had hoped, but it all turned out okay in the end.
- We got caught in a rare desert storm with flooding.
- Enjoy some of the sweet, succulent dates if you visit.
- Take a day trip to Nizwa.
Save on your trip with these resources
We use these aggregator companies to save time and money. They do the work for us by providing a list of options, prices, and reviews for anywhere we are travelling worldwide. Plus, we have personally had positive customer service experiences with all of them:
- Flights: we use Expedia for the best and cheapest flight options.
- Hotels: we use Booking.com as they consistently return the best rates and their reviews are from actual guests. However, for self-contained lodging, use VRBO
- Cars: we use RentalCars to find the best deals and dealer ratings.
- Private guides: we often hire private guides from Tours by Locals
- Travel Insurance: we start at InsureMyTrip as they are the best option to compare plans and find the right coverage for you.
Before you book the rest of your trip: Check out our travel resources page for more companies that we use when you travel.
We believe this list to be the best in each category. You can’t go wrong using them on your trip too.
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Madhu Shetty
A fabulous gallery. The framed view of the palm desert from Jabrin castle is the star. Oman of all the countries in the gulf has always fascinated me the most.
Corinne
I keep kicking myself each time I see an Oman post. When we visited UAE, we should have spent some time in Oman, but we didn’t and your trip sounds amazing. Now, I’m going to have to spend the money to get there again. Oh well. Live and learn.
Kreete
The view from the palm desert is absolutely stunning and quickly took the first spot among your beautiful photos for me. How interesting that Nizwa was the capital of Islamic culture. This is one part of the world I still havent explored, but would love to!
Rhonda Albom
I was surprised that such a small and off the beaten track city was selected for that annual honour, but like you I know little about this part of the world.
Paula McInerney
Beautiful photos Rhonda. Always an issue finding toilets in places. Fancy castles
Rob+Ann
What great pictures! Normally, when we think of castles, it’s Europe that comes to mind. This is a good reminder of the beauty and majesty of other lands and their castles! Great post, as always!
David
You’re killing me with these Oman posts haha! Nizwa looks fascinating and the Castle, Tower and Fort all are staggeringly impressive. I honestly have to figure out how to visit Oman this year, because it really is at the top of my list. I keep pinning your posts in that hope at least.
David
Please do, would love to see as much as possible and your photos are great!
Reshma Narasing
The Middle East has so much to offer, and I’m always especially drawn to the rustic ambience of these destinations. Loved the fort a lot. Never been to Oman, will definitely add Nizwa to my list.
Sandy N Vyjay
The forts are splendid. And I cannot believe my eyes looking at all those photographs that this place is an Oasis. This can become a photographer’s paradise! A relatively unknown gem with a unique kind of beauty indeed.
Travelera
The tower and fort look amazing, I did not noticed the bathroom sign when I went there. I loved the trip to Oman!
Happy week dear Rhonda
Megan Jerrard
Stunning photography as always Rhonda – I’ve heard from a few people recently that Oman was really surprising (in an excellent way!). Would love to get to Muscat at some point, and while there will be sure we make the two-hour drive to Nizwa 🙂
Jill
All your photos are wonderful but the one of the restroom sign – including the dagger – was so interesting! I’ve never seen anything like it!
Debra Schroeder
Oman does look like an oasis. I didn’t realize how easy it is to get to from Muscat. Your photos of the fort came out great. I’m always impressed when people can capture nice shots without getting other people in them. I’ve been to the UAE multiple times but had to cancel a trip to Muscat this January. But hope to make it there later this year.
Tanja (the Red phone box travels)
wow! I’ve never been to such a place
Jim ~ Reflections Enroute
Thanks to all of the new airlines going through the region, visiting the different emirates is as simple as planning a long layover on your flight between Asia and Europe or Africa. We’ve done Quatar and UAE this way. Nizwa will have to be added on some future travel plans for us, it is so exotic. And who doesn’t love an Arabian desert fortress? #wkendtravelinspiration
Bryna | Dotted Line Travels
These photos are absolutely beautiful. The tower is so big – I didn’t notice how big it was until you pointed out that your friend was standing on the stairs, and she looked so tiny!
budget jan
I am interested in you describing Oman as one of the most interesting places you’ve visited. It is on my radar now. What took you to Oman – was it work related? I wonder if it is a safe place to visit nowdays?
Handmade Jewelry Haven
Great post!!
You mentioned in one of the earlier comments that you dressed differently. Did you just ‘cover up’ more with Western Dress or did you wear something more traditional during your stay there?
– Lisa
Kat
I’m loving your photos of Oman! I’ve been to a few places in the Middle East such as Iran and Jordan – I have been in awe of their massive medieval forts and castles – so much of history, and after so many centuries, these structures are still standing tall and strong, amazing, aren’t they?
Brandy
I love posts like these because they open my mind and draw attention to parts of the world, I previously knew nothing of. Thank you for taking me on a journey this morning.
tracy collins
I haven’t been to the Middle East at all though I grew up with my step-father working in UAE and my husband has visited a friend in Bahrain. I have friends who have been to Oman and really enjoyed it. I am hoping to spend a few days in Dubai later this year on a stop-over so will have my first experience of the Middle East. Interestingly when we were in Bosnia – Mostar – earlier this year the influence of the Ottoman Empire was very evident and the market was (my husband said) like a souk with similar items on sale (lamps etc) #wkendtravelinspiration
Nancy
I haven’t been to Nizwa or anywhere else in the Middle East – I hope to visit one day. Your photos are stunning. I particularly like the photo of the palms from within the castle – excellent perspective.
noel
Wow this is stunning, I would have never expected to see something this gorgeous in the country outside of malls and hotels. I would love to visit these types of historic treasures.
Photo(Geo)grapher
What a lovely country! I enjoyed your beautiful photos in Oman.
Tamara Elliott
Wow, it looks like a place straight out of the history books that hasn’t changed a bit over the centuries. Definitely sounds like a great day trip to add for anyone visiting Oman.
Sumti Bhadani
beautiful pictures… Would like to visit once…the forts gives the historic forts of Jaipur.
L. Diane Wolfe
What a beautiful oasis. I love the mountains – they look like the Sandias in ABQ. Hopefully the oasis never dries up.
Lyn @ A Hole in my Shoe
Oman looks like a very interesting place. I’d love to browse around in the souks and love the bathroom sign.
Lyn aka The Travelling Lindfields
I love the camel!
Mimi & Mitch
can’t believe we were in Nizwa and did not go in the Jabrin Castle, it looks so stunning. Thank you for convincing us to go back!
Ruth Johnston
Love the bathroom signs!
[email protected]
Amazing photos. I love the architecture especially the intricate ceiling in Jabrin Castle. I wonder why one is not allowed to take pictures of the gatherings of older men.
Pat --Mille Fiori Favoriti
What an interesting city and such a large, well preserved castle. I liked the ancient looking and intricate ceiling, and the beautiful view of the palm desert and distant mountains from the window. I can imagine the dates are so delicious, Rhonda. What a wonderful trip this was!
Paul F. Pietrangelo
Thank God I would be able to find a washroom. I hope that there are toilets in there? See ya Rhonda.
Cruisin paul
Anisa
I had not heard of Nizwa before. Such an impressive castle, I really love the intricate ceiling. I would love to visit one day.
jo
I love that photo from Jabrin Castle – what a spectacular view. I have never been to Oman but it’s great to know that there is so much to see and that it’s so easy to travel around. I have been to Israel and the dates there were good! Thanks for hosting #WkendTravelInspiration
Anda
Ah, Rhonda, your pictures of Nizwa Castle and Fort are so beautiful! You convinced me that I have to go visit Oman. If only all it would take to get there is convincing me… Well, maybe someday.
Trekking with Becky
This is mesmerizing! My jaw is still hanging down a bit. I love all your Oman posts.
Ruth
I have been surprised by your series about Oman! The country is gorgeous and this fort is not the exception. It will be a dream to visit more of the Middle East. #TPThursday
Sandee
I haven’t been there and never will visit the Middle East. Okay, we aren’t travelers so won’t be leaving the U.S.
I’m glad the surgery went well. Thanks for posting that on Facebook.
Have a fabulous day. 🙂
Kat
The building’s in such great condition! I don’t know why that amazes me so much. They must really look after it.
Lexa Cain
I think the castles are faring really well considering how old they are. Nothing in Egypt fares so well. Did you hear about the Ramses head discovered recently? The gov’t was digging to put in sewer pipes. My husband say the area is right next to where his family lives, and he knows the place because for years a little old man would put his cart there and sell koshary (delicious street food). No one had any idea there was a statue under there. But seriously, in Egypt you can’t throw a stone without hitting statues or pottery or burial pyramids, etc. They’re everywhere.
Kat
I can’t imagine living in a place where you dig for sewer pipes and turn up ancient artifacts! Sounds so cool, I really have to get to Egypt.
Alex J. Cavanaugh
Now that’s a room with a view.
That tower is huge!
Hilary Melton-Butcher
Hi Rhonda – I can believe it was hot! Amazing and wonderful opportunity you took – and yes teaching your kids to adhere to local customs and ‘laws’ a necessity and so well worth setting examples as you both do .. to your own children, and no doubt others who share your journey. Nizwa and Jabrin must have been wonderful – such a pity you missed the market …
Wonderful – thanks so much for sharing these excellent photos – do you know what the ceiling was made of or decorated with? Thanks! Cheers Hilary
Lolo
Wow this was absolutely entertaining! I don’t know much about this region but every now and then I stumble upon beautiful things and save them! Wouldn’t mind going one day! #wkendtravelinspiration
Mary {The World Is A Book}
I’ve always found Oman so interesting and have only ever heard of Muscat. The architecture and culture is fascinating. Beautiful photos! I haven’t been to the Middle East yet.
khalid
thanks for the beautiful photos
I’am from Nizwa
Tony Payne
Must feel weird dressed up like that. The fort is amazing.
Jane
Your shots are gorgeous! I wish I ever could have the chance to visit that beautiful place!
Carol
Fact:
Oasis- a spot of fertile land in a desert, supplied with water by a well or spring that reaches up from beneath the ground for a limited time of maybe 50- years
I love the picture of Oasis. I just wonder this area is too big to be an oasis.
Naigel
Thanks for sharing with us the beautiful place of Nizwa fort and tower… I know that my family will be happy to visit this place…
Joyce
Now that’s cool!
Lynne
I never imagined an Oasis to be the size of a city. What a shame you can’t take photos of the older men as they would make wonderful subjects.
Susanna
At least the toilet signs, frightening though they are to me, clearly show which one you can go to