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Palafitos are one of the many things to see on Chiloe Island, Chile

How to Tour Chiloe Island: See Penguins or Palafitos

You are here: Home / Travel / Americas / South America / How to Tour Chiloe Island: See Penguins or Palafitos

Last Updated: March 1, 2020 // by Rhonda Albom // 34 Comments

Magellanic and Humboldt penguins can be seen off Puñihuil on the west coast of Chiloe Island, Chile. It's an interesting island also famous for stilted houses and wooden churches.

Chiloe is a rugged windswept Chilean Island defined by ancient myths and traditions. South America’s second-largest island boasts old fishing villages intermixed with incredible nature. Sixteen of its over 100 island churches have been declared UNESCO World Heritage sites that draw visitors from around the world. However, it was the penguins and palafitos (stilt houses) that inspired us to tour Chiloe Island.

It’s not a huge island. However, the highlights are a good distance from each other. Generally, if you are trying to tour Chiloe as a day trip, you need to pick between penguins at Puñihuil or stilted houses in Castro. Trying to do it all had us in transit for over eight hours of a long fifteen-hour day. Was it worth it? Read on, and you decide.

Things to do in Chiloe

Take a boat to see the Chiloe penguins

The three tiny volcanic islands just off the west coast of Puñihuil are the only known shared breeding place in the world for Humbolt and Magellan penguins. And, getting there is half the fun, the process comparable to our penguin visit in Isla Damas.

After purchasing boat tickets, we were fitted with lifejackets and given ponchos. Anchored near the shore, the boats wait as we are pulled to them upon a metal cart that holds up to 10 people. There is no best spot to sit, as the captain turns the boat for penguin viewing. TIP: Step off quickly just before a wave crashes over the base of the cart or, like me, you will have wet shoes, socks, and pant legs. 

Despite the choppy water and pelting rain, the boat was surprisingly smooth. Waddling uphill, jumping down, or diving into the sea, they are adorable birds.

Magellanic and Humboldt penguins in Chile. photo by Sarah Albom
It is easy to tell the species apart in this photo as the Magellanic penguins have two stripes near the neck (looks like a black neck), while the Humboldt penguins have only one (looks like a white neck).
Photo ©Sarah Albom. All rights reserved.
Waiting for a boat on Punihuil beach
We are ready to go. The metal cage that will take us out to the boat sits behind us.

Tour Chiloe churches

The colourful small wooden churches that dot the island were often built by fisherman and shipbuilders and served as navigational aids for them. They represent the fusion of European Christian architecture and Chilean coastal traditions. Interestingly, like their boats, the churches are built without nails utilizing various kinds of wooden joints. Built on high ground, the majority of churches have south-facing entrances to keep the rain out. Sixteen churches on Chiloe Island have been declared World heritage sites.

Chacao Church, Chiloe, Chile
Church in Chaco added a second tower in 2006 and as a result, lost their World Heritage status.
Notice the ceiling, built by boat builders and using the same techniques, thus appearing like an inverted wooden boat.
Three Churches on Chiloe Island in Chile
These are three of the 16 world heritage churches: Church of Tenaun in Tenaun, Church of Our Lady of Sorrows in Dalcahue, and Iglesia San Francisco in Castro.

View the Chiloe Palafitos in Castro (stilted houses)

Called palafitos, these waterside houses are built on Cyprus pillars in the Gamboa neighbourhood. They were originally built during the logging boom in the late 1800s. Most are homes, although there are now hotels and restaurants that are in palafitos.

Looking down on the palafitos (stilted houses) in Castro on Chiloe Island.
Looking down on the palafitos.
A seafood, meat and potato dish called curanto
For lunch, we enjoyed a local seafood, meat, and potato dish called curanto at Octavio, a palafitos restaurant.

Shop handcrafts at the artisanal markets

There are several artisan markets on the island, the most famous being the Sunday Handicraft Fair in Dalcahue. We visited several markets and consistently discovered incredibly talented weavers and knitters. From sweaters and ponchos to socks and hats, the locals really know what they are doing.

Craft market in the town of Dalcahue on Chiloe Island, Chile
Craft market in Dalcahue.

Keep an eye out for nature and wildlife

Reminding us a bit of home (New Zealand), Chiloe has a densely populated coastal birdlife, especially near the fishing ports and mussel farms. Aside from the penguins at Puñihuil, we saw black vultures, cormorants, steamer ducks, hawks, and swans. In fact, the name Chiloe means “land of seagulls” in the Mapuche language.

Inland, the island is home to pudú, the world’s smallest deer, standing at only 33 cm. Sarah was lucky enough to see one as we drove past on a part of the road that didn’t allow for stopping.

Floripondio and edible Calafate berries spotted along the road.
Our guide stops to shows us: Floripondio, a flower with hallucinogenic properties and later, edible Calafate berries.

What to see at key stops as you tour Chiloe Island

Map of key sites on Chiloe Island in Chile

Chacao

We entered from the ferry in Chacao, one of the oldest villages on the island, established in 1567. Most tours stop here, and key sites include:

  • Chacao’s church.
  • The main square, where we spotted a Monkey Puzzle Tree.
  • Colourful homes.
Colorful houses in Chacao, the oldest town on Chiloe Island
Buildings along the main square in Chacao, each with different colour and shaped shingles representing either the builder or a family unit.

Ancud

We had to skip Ancud in order to visit both the penguins and stilted houses in a day. What we missed includes:

  • Plaza de Armas (the main square) where there is a church, a gazebo featuring mythological Chilote sculptures, and the central craft market.
  • Regional Museum of Ancud.
  • Fort San Antonio, one of the last Spanish fortifications in Chile.
  • Visitor centre featuring history and information on the island’s churches.

Puñihuil

If you are headed to see the penguins, this small fishing village and beach is your first stop. Take the boat to see:

  • Penguins in the spring and summer seasons (September to March)
  • Other wildlife including cormorants, vultures, sea lions, and blue whales.
Magellanic and Humboldt penguins on Chiloe Island Chile
Magellanic penguins.

Castro

Castro is home to the palafitos (stilted houses) as well as being the capital of the Chiloe archipelago. Here you will find:

  • Colourful palafitos.
  • Wood, wool, and stone souvenirs at the indoor handcraft fair of Castro.
  • Iglesia San Francisco (World Heritage Sites).
  • Nercón Church, built in 1890 and recently restored and now a national monument.
Alcalde Jose Sandoval Gomez Market in Castro on Chiloe Island
Inside Alcalde Jose Sandoval Gomez Market in Castro.

Dalcahue

This port city was one of our key stops. Here we enjoyed:

  • Traditional woollen handcraft fair.
  • Church of Our Lady of Sorrows, a national monument and World Heritage Site.
  • History Museum (we did not have time to visit here).
Houses in the town of Dalcahue on Chiloe Island, Chile
Colourful houses in Dalcahue.

Small towns of San Juan, Tenaun, Colo, and Isla Aucar

Rather than taking the direct route of highway 5 straight back, we drove through several small towns on the way to Aucar where we walked across the bridge to Isla Aucar (The Island of Sailors). The small island is believed to be the resting place for the souls of those lost at sea.

Bridge to Isla Aucar in Chile
Bridge to Isla Aucar at low tide. On the island, we found a church, cemetery, and mussel farms.

How to tour Chiloe Island

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Chiloe Island is often a day trip beginning with a 30-minute drive from Puerto Varas or a 50-minute drive from Puerto Montt to Pargua. From here, the Chiloe ferry brings cars and passengers to the island. The three ways to tour Chiloe are on a group tour, with a private guide, or on your own. Here are the key advantages and disadvantages of each:

Group tour

Group tours are perfect for those who don’t want to drive and want the added knowledge that comes from having a guide. The downside is the more rigid schedule, and the occasional need to wait for other tour members.

Initially, we searched for tours to the penguins and the palafitos but found none. It is too long of a day. Here are our top recommendations for each site:

The island of Chiloé: Castro Dalcahue: This tour is for those who want to see the stilted houses. A small group tour that picks up from most Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt hotels. This 10-hour tour includes:

  • Transportation to the island including the ferry.
  • Chacao for the church and historic square.
  • Castro for stilted houses, the main square, San Francisco church (World Heritage site), and Nercón Church (national monument).
  • Optional lunch in Castro.
  • Dalcahue for the waterfront and the local artisan market, museum, and church.

⇒Check pricing and availability of the island of Chiloé: Castro Dalcahue tour

The Island of Chiloe and The Penguins of Puñihuil: This tour is for those who want to see the penguins and also picks up from most Puerto Varas or Puerto Montt hotels. This 10-hour tour includes:

  • Transportation to the island including the ferry.
  • Chacao to see the church and the historic square.
  • Caulín Beach, famous for oysters and rich marine fauna. (In the winter, the flamingos we saw in the Atacama desert migrate here.)
  • Puñihuil where your guide will join you on the boat out to see the penguins (extra fee)
  • Two stops in Ancud: San Antonio Fort and Plaza de Armas where you can see the main square and craft markets.

⇒Check details and availability of the Island of Chiloe and The Penguins of Puñihuil from Puerto Varas
Or, click here to check details and availability from Puerto Montt

Punihuil beach on the west coast of Chiloe Island.
Puñihuil beach.

Private guide

The three main advantages of a private guide are flexibility, a focus on what you care about most, and a timeline that fits your needs. The downside is the cost.

We hired Marcelo Uribe, a certified professional private guide that allowed us to design our basic programme, which was to include both the penguins and palafitos. His proposed schedule added even more. While we paid for this luxury and very long day, for us, it was worth every penny.

Marcelo is a local native with an eye to spot fascinating detail, birdlife, and other nature that we never would have seen on our own. Best of all, he knows and shares the fascinating legends and myths that make Chiloe such a special place to visit. He is an easy person to be with, and we highly recommend him as a guide.

⇒Check pricing and availability for Marcelo Uribe or other private guides in Chiloe

Self-drive

The main advantage of self-driving is complete flexibility and the ability to stay for multiple nights. For Chiloe, the disadvantages include the cost of the car and transporting it on the Chiloe ferry, the need to drive rather than enjoy the details of the scenery, and the loss of fascinating stories that surround this island. Also, while the Panamerican highway (highway 5) running through the island is fine, many of the backroads are unpaved and not well signposted.

We allocated one day for our visit and opted not to have a car, choosing to hire the private guide above. However, had we understood the distance and time to travel between the Chiloe Island penguins and Castro palafitos, we might have scheduled our time to allow for at least one night on the island.

If we chose to drive, we would have rented a car through RentalCars.com, as we had in Santiago, Salta, and Buenos Aires. Their online system is easy to use. They provide a conglomerate listing of local dealers. Rather than working with the Spanish speaking companies directly, we had English speaking customer service. Plus, when one of the companies accidentally overcharged us, Rental Cars effortlessly (on our part) got us our refund.

⇒ Compare rental car pricing at RentalCars.com

Street art in Castro
Street art in Castro.

Where to stay in Castro Chiloe

If we had stayed the night, it would have been at one of these two options:

Enjoy Chiloé – Hotel De La Isla: If we were to do this again, we would have spent more time at every stop, relaxed a bit, and spent the night in Castro, ideally at the five-star Enjoy hotel and casino. Located seaside, many of the rooms have stunning views; however, everyone can relax at the spa, sauna, hot tubs, restaurants or bar. Or, energize at the gym or in the casino.

⇒ Check pricing and reviews for Enjoy Chiloé

Palafito del Carpintero: If we wanted an authentic Chiloe experience, we would stay at this aparthotel with sea views and a kitchen. A great location right on the water, it has extremely good reviews and customer ratings.

⇒ Check pricing and reviews for Palafito del Carpintero

Things to know before you tour Chiloe Island

  • Wear layers, and bring a rain jacket.
  • Eat seafood or fish on the island.
  • There are bathrooms and a tiny cafeteria on the ferry to Chiloe.
  • There are few other public bathrooms on the island, use them when you see them. It might be a while before the next one appears.
  • Bring toilet paper (this goes for everywhere in South America).

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Magellanic and Humboldt penguins can be seen off Puñihuil on the west coast of Chiloe Island, Chile. It's an interesting island also famous for stilted houses and wooden churches. Church of Tenaun in the Village of Tenaun is one of 16 small wooden churches that are world heritage sites on the island of Chiloe in Chile. It's an interesting island also famous for stilted houses and penguins.

 
Our day on Chiloe Island was part of our larger South American itinerary. 

Penguins, stilted house, churches, or nature, what will bring you to Chiloe Island?

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Category: South AmericaTag: Chile

About Rhonda Albom

Capturing the essence of travel through photography, Rhonda Albom is the primary author and photographer at Albom Adventures. She is an American expat based in New Zealand. She travels the world with her husband.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Helen

    May 14, 2019 at 8:53 am

    How amazing to see the penguins! This looks like an awesome place to visit.

    Reply
  2. Nadia

    May 14, 2019 at 5:36 am

    Great tips! Super handy as we are bookmarking spots for our Chile adventure!

    Reply
  3. Keri | Ladies What Travel

    May 14, 2019 at 4:01 am

    I’ve not visited South America yet – I still have the whole continent to explore! Chile definitely interests me, I’m a big wildlife fan so I’d love to see penguins in their natural habitat!

    Reply
  4. Corey

    May 13, 2019 at 1:01 am

    I love my time spent in Chile many moons ago, but never made it to this island. What an amazing country though. Those penguins sure are cute! I like how detailed you are in the different ways to see the island, and what types of tours and guides you can get. Important info. to know, especially on an island where it’s hard to do it all.

    Reply
  5. beatravelling

    May 12, 2019 at 4:28 am

    I’m soaking up everything Chile these days. Off in the fall πŸ™‚ Thanks!

    Reply
  6. Tanja/The Red Phone Box travels

    May 12, 2019 at 3:20 am

    Thanks for showing me this beautiful place

    Reply
  7. Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles)

    May 11, 2019 at 5:03 am

    I’d want to see both too, I think, and as we much prefer travelling slowly and soaking up the atmosphere of a place rather than rushing around, I rather like the idea of spending a night or two here. It looks like an island well worth visiting.

    Reply
  8. Kisha Stewart-Harris

    May 10, 2019 at 2:17 pm

    I think I might just faint if I actually saw some real penguins outside of a zoo! I’d make the trip out there just to say I experienced that, not to mention the charm and whimsy of San Juan. Going there would be the icing on the cake.

    Reply
  9. Katie

    May 10, 2019 at 9:35 am

    Penguins would be so fun to see up close! You look like you had a great time

    Reply
  10. Jill

    May 10, 2019 at 9:27 am

    Thanks for introducing me – I’ve not heard of this island before. What a beautiful, and seemingly a bit windswept, island.

    Reply
  11. Jasmine Hewitt

    May 10, 2019 at 3:11 am

    great guide on things to do. I’d love to see the penguins!

    Reply
  12. Amy

    May 10, 2019 at 2:49 am

    Never been to this place but that place looks very vibrant to relax and unwind. Looks like you had a great time there!

    Reply
  13. Paul Pietrangelo

    May 10, 2019 at 1:41 am

    Rhonda, this place was very interesting, especially the Floripondio, a flower with hallucinogenic properties . I’ve never seen such a flower that grows upside down. Can you smell the flower or can you get some of those hallucinogenic properties ? Just be careful I guess. How was the food in this local? See ya.

    Cruisin Paul

    Reply
  14. Natural Beauty And Makeup

    May 10, 2019 at 12:49 am

    I have always seen penguins in the zoo that too locked in a cage/glass box type but never like this open face-to-face! I would love to visit this place someday. Amazing picturesπŸ’•πŸ‘Œ

    Reply
  15. Jackline a

    May 10, 2019 at 12:05 am

    I have never heard of this island but I love how charming it is and how much there is to do there.

    Reply
  16. Lydia Smith

    May 9, 2019 at 7:48 am

    So beautiful and it has many nice place to visit at Chili’s island. I will also love to see penguins.

    Reply
  17. Lyosha

    May 9, 2019 at 6:02 am

    wow! it is such an experience! so interesting! and penguins! I would so travel there. I hope I will, one day

    Reply
  18. Carol

    May 9, 2019 at 3:48 am

    Wow there is so much to see and do. I’d definitely want to see the penguins.

    Reply
  19. Surekha Busa

    May 9, 2019 at 3:47 am

    I haven’t heard of this Island before. It looks so great here, I would to see the penguins in oerson. And Castro looks nice..! 😊😍

    Reply
  20. Kalyan Panja

    May 9, 2019 at 3:41 am

    Thanks for sharing this nice tour guide on things to do in Chiloe. I love visiting the crowded local markets to get the essence of the place.

    Reply
  21. kumamonjeng

    May 8, 2019 at 11:55 am

    We are planning to visit South America end of next year. It is a huge plan for us as we are flying from Asia, very far and need a connecting flight from Australia or New Zealand. Glad to learn about Chiloe and I shall consider adding this city into my list.

    Reply
  22. Norma

    May 8, 2019 at 11:54 am

    Great pictures, very colorful! Would love to visit and see the penguins!

    Reply
  23. Nancy

    May 8, 2019 at 11:11 am

    Absolutely fascinating post. I never heard of this place but it looks idyllic. So glad you shared all this info and the glorious photos with our weekly linkup.

    Reply
  24. Stacie

    May 8, 2019 at 9:07 am

    That’s so awesome! I want to go see the penguins. I think a trip to Chloe Island would be amazing.

    Reply
  25. Michelle

    May 8, 2019 at 6:19 am

    Fascinating place! I love the bright colors on the buildings, and was surprised to find bright colors on the churches too. The penguins are really cute.

    Reply
  26. L. Diane Wolfe

    May 8, 2019 at 6:01 am

    What a beautiful place.

    I’d risk choppy waters to see the penguins up close.

    Reply
  27. mary

    May 8, 2019 at 5:07 am

    I can honestly say this place is all new to me, but it sure looks interesting. The nature alone will get me there, but those colourful villages and churches are also so wonderful. pinned in hopes of getting to it one day!

    Reply
  28. Hilary

    May 8, 2019 at 4:30 am

    Hi Rhonda – gosh it looks like you’ve had an amazing trip … I’d love to visit – and I’ll remember to try and keep my feet dry. Beautiful and stunning wildlife -let alone the architecture … stilt cottages as well as the churches … lovely to see – thank you – Hilary

    Reply
  29. Sandee

    May 8, 2019 at 3:58 am

    Looks cold and damp, but ever so colorful.

    Have a fabulous day, Rhonda. β™₯

    Reply
  30. Joanna

    May 8, 2019 at 1:02 am

    Chiloe was my favorite stop in Chile. I have spent a few days there, exploring the national park and having curanto with the locals. I did see the penguins as well and just missed the whales, who left one day before I arrived.

    Reply
  31. stevebethere

    May 8, 2019 at 12:26 am

    Brilliant shots everywhere is so colourful so refreshing πŸ™‚ , that’s a nice smiley photo of the 3 of you heheh!

    Thanks for the tour Rhonda have a tourtastic week ➑

    Reply
  32. Alex J. Cavanaugh

    May 7, 2019 at 10:55 pm

    Very colorful place. Churches are quite pretty.

    Reply
  33. Angela

    May 7, 2019 at 7:54 pm

    This looks amazing. I really must get back to Chile soon.

    Reply
  34. Lady Fi

    May 7, 2019 at 4:44 pm

    Amazing tour and shots!

    Reply

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